Central Asia | Turkmenistan - Uzbekistan - Kyrgyzstan
Day 1: The Central Asian adventure begins with the journey to Turkmenistan. In Ashgabat, obtaining a visa upon arrival at the airport should normally be possible (as of May 2023). However, flights from Europe via Istanbul arrive very late, resulting in a rather long night and a rather tired morning.
Day 2: Ashgabat, the fascinating capital of Turkmenistan, is a unique experience in itself... there are only white cars and houses (the "White City"), everything is incredibly clean and tidy, which can give it a somewhat sterile feel. However, there are also exciting sights that can easily be seen in a day. These include the Carpet Museum , the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque , the magnificent Ertogrul Gazi Mosque , and the ruins of Nisa (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the ancient royal city of the Parthians. In the early evening, we'll take a day trip by plane to Mary.
Day 3: Not far from the town of Mary lies the ruined city of Merv (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). It is one of the oldest and best-preserved oasis cities of the ancient Silk Road, with a turbulent and bloody history. The excavations offer a glimpse into the lives of the Central Asian peoples before the spread of Islam. During a walk through the city, the Great Kyz Kala, the Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum, and the Ashgabat Mausoleum are particularly worth seeing. In the afternoon, the flight back to Ashgabat departs.
Day 4: We boarded another plane, this time to Dashoguz, the former capital of the large oasis of Khorezm. There are impressive mausoleums of the Sufi dynasty and Sultan Tekesh to admire, as well as the Kutlug Timur Minaret , at 62 meters the tallest minaret in Central Asia (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Afterwards, we crossed the border into Uzbekistan and continued on to Khiva. As of May 2023, crossing the border with the necessary formalities was straightforward, although our tour guide in Uzbekistan was surprised that we had "made it through." Once in Khiva, you'll definitely need plenty of space on your memory card. In Khiva, we experienced a picturesque oasis city.
Day 5: Within the towering, ancient walls of Khiva's old town , Itchan Kala (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the atmosphere of 1001 Nights truly comes alive. Narrow alleyways and small mud-brick houses, the colorful bazaar, and the monumental mosques and madrasas with their turquoise tiles and clay ovens for baking bread exude the charm of the Orient. A leisurely stroll and, of course, enjoying dinner on a rooftop terrace before sunset are simply divine.
Day 6: A rather long drive along the Amu Darya River and through the "red sands" of the Kyzylkum Desert leads to Bukhara. While stretching our legs after the long journey, we stumbled upon Poi Kalon illuminated in the evening... wow! Definitely go there in the evening. The whole place is incredibly atmospheric.
Days 7/8: Bukhara's historic city center (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) has much to offer without being overcrowded. Highlights include the beautifully decorated Samanid Mausoleum , the lovely Bolo-Hauz Mosque , the iconic Ark Citadel Gate, and, of course, Poi Kalon . Sights located slightly outside the city center are also worth visiting, such as the religiously significant memorial complex of the great Sufi, ascetic, and saint Sheikh Bahauddin Naqshbandi and the opulent house of the merchant Khodjaev .
Day 9: We travel to Samarkand. A thorough visit to the ancient royal city of Shahrisabz (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is highly recommended. The tombs in the Dorus Siadat complex are impressive, especially the mausoleum of Timur's favorite son, Jahongir. Intriguingly, just a few meters from Jahongir's mausoleum lies a crypt intended for Timur's burial. This site was discovered by chance. In 1943, a boy playing football fell through the floor into a hole. The chamber contained a stone tomb in the center and was decorated with excerpts from the Quran. It remains unclear who was buried there. Timur was later reinterred in the Gur-Emir Mausoleum in Samarkand. In the opposite Dor ut Tivolat complex , the Blue Mosque (Kok Gumbaz Mosque) and the Shamseddin Kulal Mausoleum are particularly impressive. And finally, a visit to Timur's White Fortress (Oq Saroy) is a must. The ruins and the surrounding area give a sense of the sheer size of this fortress.
Timur is very much present in Uzbekistan from this point onward, as an incredibly cruel military leader, yet he is still venerated in large parts of the country with statues and monuments. With the founding of the Timurid dynasty, Timur aimed to restore a vast Islamic empire. It is certain that during his reign he established one of the largest empires ever to exist in Central Asia. The territory of his empire encompassed not only Central Asia but also Afghanistan, Pakistan, part of India, Iran, Iraq, the entire Caucasus (Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan), Syria, and part of Turkey. Timur's rule was characterized by tyranny and brutality. Battles in Anatolia, where he let enemy soldiers die of thirst, and the massacre of all people in Sivas, bear witness to his reputation. The murder of civilians and even hundreds of thousands of prisoners of war are almost unimaginable atrocities. His beheading of countless enemies is particularly memorable. On the other hand, Timur was also a patron of the arts and surrounded himself with artists and scholars. Despite this reign, Timur is revered today in Uzbekistan as a kind of national hero, as he significantly influenced the geographical and cultural development of Central Asia and, in particular, the importance of Uzbekistan.
Still under the impression of our initial learning about the Timurid era, we arrived late in Samarkand and managed to squeeze in an evening stroll to Registan Square. And what can we say... it's amazing! Especially in the evening, the buildings are illuminated in a variety of ways, and the light show is accompanied by music, making it truly impressive. More on that in a moment.
Day 10: Today is entirely dedicated to Samarkand, the center and heart of the Silk Road, capital of the Timurid Empire, and one of the oldest cities in the world. During his reign, Timur not only brought spoils of war to Samarkand, but also architects and craftsmen from various countries. Thus, various cities in his empire were endowed with architectural masterpieces, including the truly remarkable Registan Square, framed by three enormous and magnificent madrasas (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), whose opulent and imposing entrance portals are, however, "merely" advertisements for potential students.
In the morning, however, we first visit Timur's tomb, the Gur-Emir Mausoleum . We stand at Timur's sarcophagus. Photo tip: Around midday, it's worth exploring Registan Square . Afterward, we go to the Bibi-Khanum Mosque , once the largest and most beautiful mosque in the Orient. Even today, a visit is fascinating and associated with special stories. One particularly beautiful legend is that Bibi-Khanum, Timur's favorite wife, commissioned the mosque's construction as a gift to him. When Timur approached Samarkand again after a campaign, the building was not quite finished. Bibi-Khanum was furious and demanded that the construction be completed on time. However, the builder was in no hurry to finish the building, as he wanted to be near Bibi for a long time, having fallen in love with her. To complete the mosque's construction, there was one condition: the queen had to allow him to kiss her. She allowed the builder to kiss her cheek. At the last moment, she pulled a small pillow between them, but the kiss was so hot and passionate that it burned through the pillow into her delicate cheek. When Timur saw the mark of the kiss on his beloved wife's face, the queen, under his intense pressure, confessed her infidelity. Enraged, he demanded that Bibi throw herself to her death from the highest minaret of the mosque the next day. All night long, Bibi sewed a beautiful silk dress to make a fitting leap for the queen. When she actually jumped from the minaret the next morning, the dress had become so sumptuous and magnificent that, carried by the silk gown, she simply flew away all the way to Persia. How beautiful legends are!
In the afternoon, a visit to the Shah-i-Zinda ("Living King") necropolis , one of the most famous in Central Asia, is on the agenda. In the late afternoon, a visit to the Ulugbek Observatory is highly recommended. Be fascinated by the achievements of Mirzo Ulug Begh and surprised to learn that he was a grandson of Timur.
In the evening, we'll head back to Registan Square (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Photo tip: as mentioned before, the square is incredibly atmospheric in the evening. The square is then closed off, and you can only enter with an entrance fee (the ticket booth is on the left). It's not expensive and well worth the money, as the square isn't very crowded, allowing you to take photos and videos in peace and, above all, soak up the atmosphere.
One final tip: Go to the supposedly best Plov restaurant in the world, Samarkand No. 1 in the Osh Market, in time for lunch.
Day 11: Goodbye Samarkand and on to Tashkent. On the way, it's worth visiting the paper mill in the Koni Gil valley. Tissue paper is still handmade there today. The mill's garden is also a lovely place to stroll.
Day 12: In Tashkent, the day begins with a visit to the Earthquake Memorial . Afterwards, the tour continues to the Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum . Abu Bakr Kaffal Shashi was a renowned imam. This great scholar and theologian was born in Tashkent in 903 and named after Abu Bakr, an ally of the Prophet Muhammad and the first Caliph. The tour then proceeds to the former Barak-Khan Islamic School (a great photo opportunity), followed by a stroll through the Chorsu Bazaar (be sure to stop at the bakery and buy some fresh bread). Afterwards, there will be some time for metro hopping and sightseeing (government district, Hotel Uzbekistan, Russian Orthodox Church, and TV tower).
Day 13: Now it's off to Kyrgyzstan by plane to Bishkek. After arrival, it's well worth simply strolling through the city. The city center around Ala Too Square has some great spots, and the mountain panorama with the white peaks of the Tian Shan Mountains is a constant source of enjoyment.
Day 14: Along the Tian Shan Mountains (UNESCO World Heritage Site), the picturesque mountain scenery around Lake Issyk-Kul offers a beautiful contrast to the previous itinerary. A stop at the Burana Minaret , the rock paintings of Cholpon-Ata , and of course a boat trip on the second largest mountain lake in the world (Lake Titicaca is number one) are on the agenda for the day.
Day 15: From Cholpon-Ata to Karakol, a detour to the Grigoryevskoye Gorge is an absolute must. A truly beautiful natural area. Here you can hike a short way into the gorge and find a nice spot by the mountain stream for a picnic. And the truly adventurous even take a quick dip in the icy water. In Karakol, the former garrison town has a typical Russian character. A visit to the grave of Central Asian explorer Nikolai Przhevalsky, as well as the Dungan Mosque and the Russian Orthodox wooden church, is worthwhile (please note opening times).
Day 16: After a stroll through the market in Karakol, the journey continues along the southern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul, with the picturesque Tian Shan mountains as a backdrop. A highlight is the hike through the red, brownish, and ochre-colored rocks of Skazka Gorge (Fairy Tale Canyon). In the village of Bokonbaev, you can visit real eagle hunters and even stay with a family for lunch. Back in Bishkek, a wonderful journey through Central Asia comes to an end. The next day, you'll fly to the airport and return to Germany via Istanbul.