USA Southwest
Day 1: We'd like to draw some conclusions right away. The Southwest of the USA is an absolutely stunning region and incredibly diverse. Fascinating cities and outstanding national parks—everyone has surely seen countless films and pictures of it on TV and the internet. Experiencing this region firsthand is so incredibly different from the media impressions... as already mentioned on the main page, it's hard to put into words what we experienced there. A very clear recommendation beforehand: if you also want to do a self-drive trip, start planning well in advance. Also, the issue of parking needs to be mentioned. This is our first time in the USA, and we were shocked by the parking prices. So, with good planning (except for the parking problem) and great anticipation, we land in San Francisco and check into our hotel. We immediately reserve a bicycle for the day after tomorrow, but first, of course, we head to the cable cars . We bravely jump onto the running board, ride to Fisherman's Wharf and enjoy a leisurely stroll to end the day.
Day 2: We took a city tour that we had booked in advance from home. In our opinion, it was well worth it, as it efficiently covered all the city's major highlights (including Pacific Heights, Fort Point, the Golden Gate Bridge, Muir Woods, and the Palace of Fine Arts ). We certainly didn't want the stress of doing this tour on our own. Plus, the tickets for Alcatraz were included.
Day 3: In the morning, we picked up our bikes and cycled to the remaining sights in San Francisco that were important to us after our city tour ( City Hall, Union Square, the ferry terminal, Coit Tower, Lombard Street, another look at the Golden Gate Bridge, and the Painted Ladies ). To be honest, we have to admit that a bike tour like this probably isn't for everyone. Even though we're quite athletic (more on that later at the Grand Canyon), we wouldn't do a tour like this again. We had to push the bikes for the last few kilometers because our muscles simply gave out after the endless climbs and descents.
Day 4: Today we pick up our rental car and begin our road trip through the Southwest of the USA. After getting our car, we stock up on essentials and head to our first destination, the Point Pinos Lighthouse . It's closed, but it's still a great place. Next on our itinerary is the 17-Mile Drive. Unfortunately, we're stopped at the entrance by the police because a golf tournament is taking place (who would have thought golfers would be protected from tourists?). We think, "Well, this is off to a great start, the first two things on our list not working out." However, our bad thoughts quickly disappear as we drive along the famous coastal Highway 1 , because the views are simply breathtaking. We could stop every few minutes to take photos. After every bend, there are fantastic views to photograph, and we have to keep an eye on the time to stay somewhat on schedule. Stopping at every scenic spot is simply impossible. We finally make a long photo stop at the Bixby Bridge . Afterwards, we hike to Mc Way Falls and, after a longer drive, head to Morro Bay . The first day on the highway is done, and we spend the night in Pismo.
Day 5: We stayed in Pismo to use the day for sightseeing in the area. First, we went to the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal colony and then to Hearst Castle . Two very different and worthwhile tours. Hearst Castle (costing around $600 million) is especially amazing. When do you ever get the chance to visit the estate of a super-rich person? In the late afternoon, we went to the Ocean Dunes . After some hesitation and with a queasy feeling in our stomachs, we ventured out and drove right onto the beach, cruising leisurely through the sand with the windows down... really cool, but be warned, if you try this, make sure your car has four-wheel drive, otherwise the other big trucks will be happy to pull you out of the sand with plenty of nice dollar bills.
Day 6: Today we continue on to Los Angeles. Back on Highway 1, there are four sights worth seeing along the way. First, definitely visit the town of Solvang (Little Denmark) and then Santa Barbara . After an hour's drive, we stop for a photo opportunity at Point Mugu Rock . Before heading into the traffic chaos of Los Angeles, we check out the beach houses in Malibu , as far as we can get. In the chaotic city traffic of LA, we are very surprised by how relaxed American drivers are. Even when changing lanes in very heavy traffic, there is no pushing or honking. So we arrive at the hotel more relaxed than expected. We should mention that there are certainly some who drive directly from San Francisco to Los Angeles. In our opinion, this limits the experience of the region around Highway 1.
Day 7: We explore Los Angeles . First, we drive to the Griffin Observatory . From up there, the city lies at your feet. The view is beautiful, but photography is difficult because the city is located to the south and during the day it's almost always more or less backlit. The view is probably really great in the evening. We also make sure to stop at the obligatory photo spot with the Hollywood sign , and afterwards we head back into the city to see the Dolby Theatre (Oscars), the Chinese Theatre, the Walk of Fame , and the Loews Hotel . In the afternoon, we stroll along Venice Beach for a while.
Day 8: Our exploration of LA continues through classic Downtown and Beverly Hills. Breakfast at Grand Central Market is definitely recommended . We had the best New York-style pastrami sandwich ever, at Jose Chiquito's. Fortified, we take the Angel Flight up into the city and visit the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels , the Disney Concert Hall , Olvera Street , and City Hall . We then drive to Beverly Hills, taking in the obligatory highlights: Rodeo Drive, the Beverly Hilton Hotel , and the Regent Hotel . On the way back to the hotel, we stop at Universal Studios . The park entrance fee deters us, so we just take a photo with the famous globe .
Day 9: We leave Los Angeles. We didn't really like the city, so we're now looking forward to San Diego. On the way there, our first stop is Long Beach to see the RMS Queen Mary . Not a must-do. Now back on the Pacific coast and the wonderful Highway 1, we have breakfast alone on the beach and then stop shortly afterward at the viewpoints at Laguna Beach and Dana Point Headland . A little off the highway, we visit the Mission San Juan Capistrano for a great tour. Our last stop is in Carlsbad , which offers some beautiful photo opportunities (the pier, the Carlsbad Mineral Water building). For sunset, a visit to San Diego's La Jolla Cove is worthwhile.
Day 10: We've planned the entire day for exploring San Diego . First, we'll visit two ships: the HMS Surprise (from the movie Master and Commander) and the aircraft carrier USS Midway . Visiting both ships is highly recommended. We'll also stroll through Balboa Park , along the beach in Coronado (a filming location for Marilyn Monroe), and drive around Sunset Cliff Park for a bit. San Diego is beautiful.
Day 11: This morning we leave the coast, reminiscing fondly about the fantastic drive on Highway 1. But the next highlight awaits: Joshua Tree National Park . For the first time, we use our annual pass to enter the park (note: the national park annual pass is more worthwhile than buying individual tickets if you plan to visit three or more parks). The striking and beautiful Joshua trees immediately catch our eye , and we stop several times to photograph particularly stunning specimens. We easily reach most of the park's attractions ( Arch Rock, Skull Rock, Jumo Rocks, Cape Rock ) by car. For our hike, we chose the Hidden Valley Trail . The hike takes about 30 minutes and is wonderful, but the vacation could have taken a completely different turn right here, as we almost stepped on a rattlesnake. It really saved us at the last moment with a loud rattlesnake before retreating... Phew. Just imagine if the snake hadn't noticed us in time and had bitten us. With rather wobbly legs, we returned to the car and drove to our hotel in Indian Wells.
Day 12: Today we have an early start, as we have a long drive to the Grand Canyon ahead of us. Breakfast is just a snack, and we stop for lunch in Kingman after almost four hours of driving. After another three hours or so, we approach the Grand Canyon's South Entrance on Arizona State Route 64. The closer we get to the canyon, the more spectacular the landscape we had imagined, but the surroundings are rather monotonous. We park our car at the visitor center, look around, and still can't quite believe that this is where the Grand Canyon is supposed to be. It looks more like a large highway rest stop. A sign points the way to a viewpoint, and we set off along a perfectly paved path, following the other visitors. Somewhat disappointed by the whole scene, we can then sense in the distance that the landscape is about to change, and suddenly we're standing at the edge. How can one describe this first glimpse... it's something like, "This can't be real," or "This can't be happening," all the way to "Beautiful, what are the dimensions of this, unimaginable." We stood there for a good ten minutes, completely stunned, unable to put the experience into words. In the afternoon, we drove to the viewpoints east of the visitor center ( Duck on a Rock, Grand View Point, Moran Point, Lipan Point, Navajo Point, Desert Watchtower ) – this is accessible by car. Every view into the canyon from these points is simply breathtaking. We then went to Lipan Point for sunset.
Day 13: We're back to the topic of 'sporting' activities. We had actually planned a day hike through the canyon for today. That meant descending about 1,500 meters down the South Kaibab Trail and then climbing another 1,500 meters back up via the Bright Angel Trail. And yes, the internet and all sorts of forums warn of the life-threatening dangers of this day hike. After seeing the sheer scale of the canyon yesterday, it was clear to us that this didn't seem like a good idea. So, we're changing our plans for today and simply moving our planned hike forward to tomorrow. We're still taking the shuttle to the South Kaibab Trail to hike at least as far as Ooh Aah Point in the canyon. The hike (about 1.5 to 2 hours) and the views are magnificent and worthwhile; the viewpoint isn't called Ooh Aah Point for nothing. Back at the canyon exit, looking back down into the depths, the thought of hiking all the way through the canyon resurfaces in our minds. We had swapped plans, so we have some time tomorrow. Well, first we'll continue along the edge to Pipecreek Vista and back to the visitor center. Now we're heading to the western viewpoints ( Yavapai Point, Grandeur Point, and Hopi Point ). We'll pass the Bright Angel Trailhead, the end of the canyon traverse, and the thought of trying it after all resurfaces. After much deliberation this evening, we decide to tackle this incredible hike tomorrow, with a "turnaround option." After Ooh Aah Point, the Cedar Ridge comes into view on the way down, and we plan to meet there to decide whether to continue. With many thoughts about the next day, we go to bed early and consequently have a poor night's sleep.
Day 14: We get up very early, take the first bus (5:30 a.m.) to the South Kaibab Trailhead , and are completely silent with anticipation. The bus driver shakes his head a little when he learns, as we get off and say goodbye, that we plan to hike down and back in one day. He reminds us to take enough water, which is extremely important for the descent since there are no water sources to refill. It's also clear that you should be mindful of your water supply and not leave your hydration pack half-open in your backpack with only the bare essentials. So, shivering, we take our first steps into the canyon (we haven't brought long clothes to save weight). We pass Ooh Aah Point , just like the day before, and continue as planned to Cedar Ridge for our first break and the point of decision. We decide to go further. After about 5 km of steep descent, we have a beautiful view of the Colorado River and also the feeling of getting closer to the bottom of the canyon. After another 5 km, we stand before the Black Bridge and are at the bottom. The constant descent had left us with severe leg muscle pain, and we were looking forward to a break at Phantom Ranch . However, the ranch was still about 2.5 km from the bridge. The trail seemed endless, it was hot, we were starting to feel a bit worn out, and we were incredibly relieved to be able to recover in the shade of the trees at the ranch. Normally, we would have stayed overnight and continued the next day, but we had to get back. Phantom Ranch, by the way, is booked months in advance. This meant we would have to plan our vacations around when an overnight stay at the ranch was possible... which wasn't an option for us. So we rested extensively, shared excess supplies with other hikers, and ate and drank as much as we could. We set off on the return journey, which, let me tell you, would demand everything from us. From the ranch, it's about 1 km to the Bright Angel Trail Bridge and back across the river. From there on, it was incredibly hot in this part of the canyon, and there wasn't a breath of wind. I can barely breathe, find a small shady spot under a rock, and for the first time, I panic about not making it back. I force down an energy gel, eat an energy bar and some nuts, and try to calm myself down. Step by step, we continue. The heat down here in the canyon is almost unbearable. By the end of the hike, we've each drunk about 8 liters of water. The trail is still relatively flat until Pipe Creek Beach , and we can recover a bit. But then my mind starts to race... along the rest of the way, we constantly have the edge of the canyon in view, which seems to be getting no closer. My mind keeps telling me, "You'll never make it up there." From Garden Creek , it's a continuous 13km climb with 1,300 meters of elevation gain, and this thought remains a constant companion. We struggle to the next major break at Indian Garden . From there, we hike the last 8km. We haven't spoken a word in ages, we skip several photo opportunities (which says something!), make brief stops at the various water stations, and try to refuel with energy gels and bars. Towards the end, our nerves are completely frayed as we have to dodge cheerful hikers in smart casual clothes who wander a few meters into the Bright Angel Trail. After 11 hours, 8.20 hours of hiking, 27.9 km, and 2,800 meters of elevation gain, we're finally back at the top, utterly exhausted. We take the shuttle back to the car and return to the hotel. All we want to do is go to bed. All the opinions online about this day hike are valid, and everyone has to decide for themselves whether this is the right trip for them. One thing is clear: without a certain level of fitness and preparation, hiking through the Grand Canyon is impossible, especially during the summer months.
Day 15: We set off very early again. Strangely enough, we barely have any muscle soreness the next day, so we jump in the car, happy not to have to walk for a while. We head towards Bryce Canyon. A stop at Horseshoe Bend is a must on the way. The best time for photography is in the morning . Afterwards, we opted for a tour of the magnificent Antelope Canyon . We had booked a photography tour in advance. This tour has the advantage of giving you plenty of time to take photos without other tourists in the most exciting parts of the canyon. The extra cost compared to the regular sightseeing tour is definitely worth it. On the way to Bryce Canyon, we stop at the Navajo Bridge over Marble Canyon. Filled with wonderful impressions, we drive for almost three hours to Bryce Canyon City, having to advance our watches by one hour along the way (time zone change). Upon arrival, my wife is relieved to find a laundromat right at the hotel. The evening is saved, as we can finally do some laundry after 14 days.
Day 16: A day hike in the canyon is on the agenda. We buy our provisions for the day at the hotel's convenience store, pack our backpacks, and after a short drive, we arrive at Sunrise Point. Once again, our jaws drop in disbelief... the first glimpse into Bryce Canyon is simply breathtaking and overwhelming. The hiking trails around and within the canyon are unparalleled. The day flies by; you could spend hours taking photos at every turn and still not capture the full beauty of the park. Truly a dreamlike landscape.
Day 17: Today's destination is Zion National Park. Before setting off, we're making another stop at Bryce Canyon. We drive to Bryce Point and take some more beautiful photos. For our next stop, we've chosen Red Canyon . It's definitely worth it. The park has significantly fewer visitors than its big brother, Bryce Canyon, and in our opinion, that's undeserved... Red Canyon is truly beautiful, with amazing rock formations and hiking trails. Our next stop is at the east entrance of Zion National Park , at Checkerboard Mesa , where we can take a few nice walks. Later, we hike the beautiful Canyon Overlook Trail , and before checking into our hotel, we take some lovely photos of Watchman and the surrounding rock formations in the perfect early evening light.
Day 18: The entire day is planned for Zion National Park. We hop on the shuttle bus at the park entrance in Springdale (cars aren't allowed in the park) and get off at stop number 6, "The Grotto." This is the starting point for the famous hike to Angels Landing . It's highly recommended that you thoroughly research the trail profile beforehand, as this hike is not for the faint of heart, but rather for daredevil adrenaline junkies. Since "the good lady" isn't very sure-footed, we hesitated for a long time before even attempting the climb. You have to clamber up a narrow ridge using iron chains and then cross an incredibly narrow section where there's a sheer 500-meter drop right next to your feet. Once at the top, we're rewarded with an indescribable view, and the name "Angels Landing" is absolutely justified. After the descent, we're incredibly relieved to be back in the valley. We'll make a detour to stop number 8, ' Big Bend ', for a leisurely hike along the Virgin River. A truly exciting day amidst fantastic nature is coming to an end.
Day 19: Today we start the day a bit more relaxed, as we "gain" an hour on the way to Las Vegas due to the time change. We use this time to explore the Valley of Fire . Nevada's largest state park is particularly impressive with its colorful rock formations. By car, it's possible to drive directly to some of the sights (including Elephant Rock, Atlas Rock, Arch Rock, Mouse Tank, and Rainbow Vista ) or reach them with short hikes. After a short drive, we see the lights of Las Vegas on the horizon and check into the MGM Grand. Checking in is an experience in itself, as there's an unbelievable line at reception for such a large hotel, yet it feels like 50 employees are processing guests at a rapid pace... crazy. In the evening, we head to the famous Las Vegas Strip . After the previous days in nature, we get so fed up with the neon lights and the hustle and bustle of the city after a while that we have absolutely no desire for an extended tour and march back to our room, going to bed very early for Vegas.
Day 20: After breakfast, we plan to photograph the most beautiful hotels and sights in Las Vegas along the Las Vegas Boulevard. Here's a photography tip : The Boulevard runs north-south, so in the morning the highlights on the left side of the street are beautifully illuminated by the sun, while on the return trip in the afternoon, the best light is on the other side. So, we'll start at the Luxor, continue past Caesars Palace, and head to the Mirage . Around midday, we'll make a detour to the Hoover Dam . Back in the city, we'll return from the Mirage, passing the Venetian and the Eiffel Tower, and end up back at the MGM Grand. We're actually quite glad that we can leave the city tomorrow. Again today, we didn't feel like gambling, seeing a show, or doing any other activities.
Day 21: Checking out, we were excited to head back into nature. Almost out of the hotel, we noticed on the bill that we'd been charged for drinks from the minibar. Thinking "it could have worked," we corrected the bill. We drove quickly out of the city and had to admit that the saying "what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas" definitely didn't apply to us. We didn't gamble away a single dollar, didn't book any expensive entertainment, and didn't go on any wild bar crawls. We chuckled a bit when we realized this and were really looking forward to Death Valley . Our first stop was Dante's View, overlooking Badwater Basin... simply breathtaking scenery. After that, we stopped at Zabriskie Point and, of course, at the highlight: Badwater Basin . This is the lowest point in North America (85.5 meters below sea level) and one of the warmest places on Earth. We deliberately went there around midday, and it was hot and bright. So, sun hats and sunglasses on, and off we went. Many tourists don't hike into the basin, so after just a few meters, we were alone in the middle of the desert, once again realizing that deserts have a very special fascination. In the afternoon, we stopped for a photo opportunity at the Devils Golf Course , then drove along Artist Drive , and finally visited the sand dunes of the Mesquite Plain . Even though Badwater Basin is certainly the most famous attraction, the other experiences in Death Valley are also worth a visit.
Day 22: We set off for the last stop on our trip, Yosemite National Park . We had been anxiously awaiting news about our route for quite some time... keyword: Tioga Pass . The fastest way to Yosemite heading west is via the pass, which, however, is closed in winter from the beginning of November until May/June. In 2019, the pass didn't open until July 1st, and we were incredibly lucky that a few days prior, it was possible to drive over it at a specific time, without stopping, and only in a single lane behind a ranger vehicle. We made it to the entrance of the pass just in time, lined up behind the other waiting cars, and even had time for a quick snowball fight – and this was at the end of June! As mentioned, we weren't allowed to stop because the infrastructure along the pass doesn't open until July 1st, so we were able to check into our ranch near Yosemite National Park quite early. We ended the day relaxing in the ranch bar. We were definitely glad we didn't have to take a detour. One more note about accommodation. There are no really suitable places to stay in the immediate vicinity of the park, apart from one exorbitantly expensive hotel. From our lodge, it took us about an hour to drive to Yosemite Village, which we had to factor into our tour planning.
Day 23: The next two days are dedicated to extensive hikes in Yosemite National Park . On our first day in the park, we plan to head straight to the world-famous highlight , El Capitan . We park our car at Yosemite Village and hike west along the Merced River valley, admiring the waterfalls and impressive rock formations. Since El Capitan is quite a distance away, probably only a climber can truly experience the unique fascination of this sheer rock face. For us, the park as a whole is another exceptional natural highlight, primarily because of its vastness and its distinct character compared to the national parks we've visited so far.
Day 24: Today we head for higher altitudes. Glacier Point is a great starting point for a hike on the plateau. From there, we hike to Sentinel Creek View , Taft Point , and Sentinel Dome . Sentinel Dome offers a particularly wonderful panoramic view. In the afternoon, you can also capture the famous view of Half Dome from there. On our way back from the park, we try to get closer to El Capitan and scramble through rough terrain towards the rock. Unfortunately, we can't find the approach. The closer we get, the more apparent the unique, smooth texture of the rock face becomes. How anyone gets up there is unimaginable to us.
Day 25: We take it easy today, as we don't have to return the rental car until 6:00 PM. We drive leisurely back to San Francisco, grab a burger before leaving (a typical farewell treat), return the car, and sit at the gate, filled with impressions. As mentioned at the beginning, the Southwest of the USA is perhaps the ultimate dream trip.