South America | Ecuador - Peru - Bolivia - Chile - Argentina - Brazil
Day 1: The adventure of 6 countries in 23 days begins with the journey to Ecuador. To put it bluntly, the very high altitudes in Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia, as well as the climatic conditions, are a challenge for us Central Europeans. Despite good preparation (including coca tea), we struggled with altitude sickness, and more professional-grade clothing would have been welcome. But first things first. After arriving in Quito (approx. 2,850 m) in the foothills of the Andes, we took a bus to the small town of Otavalo and, for the last time for the next three weeks, crossed into the Northern Hemisphere. After the long journey and jet lag, we were looking forward to bed.
Day 2: In the morning, we explore the lively indigenous market of Otavalo and, unaware of the wool's quality, are tempted to buy our first "alpaca scarf." Afterwards, we drive to the "Mitad del Mundo" (Middle of the World) monument . Naturally, we take advantage of this to stand with one foot in the Northern Hemisphere and the other in the Southern Hemisphere... great fun! Incidentally, you can take good photos from the back of the monument without any pesky tourists . In the afternoon, we return to Quito, the highest capital city in the world. We continue to drink coca tea regularly, and the altitude doesn't bother us at all.
Day 3: A guided tour of Quito , a UNESCO World Heritage city, is highly recommended. You'll learn about the city's turbulent history and discover its colonial buildings and impressive churches. A visit to the Basilica of the Voto National is a must, and climbing the towers is simply magnificent. The richly decorated Church of the Society of Jesus (Iglesia la Compnia de Jesus) is also well worth seeing. Photography is prohibited here. El Panecillo, with its 45-meter-high statue of the Virgin of Quito, offers another beautiful view of the city. After a final look at Quito, we drive south along the famous Pan-American Highway into the heart of the Central Andes. To round off the day, we hike in the highlands near our lodge. The lodge rooms have stoves, so it won't be the first cold night.
Day 4: We travel south along the "Avenue of the Volcanoes." In Cotopaxi National Park , the world's highest active volcano, with its classic cone shape and glacial cap, rises majestically. We're lucky with the weather and can take some fantastic photos. Our bus driver takes us on a spectacular drive to the trailhead parking lot for Cotopaxi's base camp at around 4,500 meters. From there, we hike up to the camp at 4,864 meters and realize that the thin air is pushing our bodies to their limits. However, we are rewarded with magnificent views of Cotopaxi's vast lahar fields. In the evening, we return to Quito.
Day 5: We drove to the airport early and flew along the Andes Mountains to Cusco. Be aware that the flight goes via Lima, and at check-in it wasn't clear whether our luggage would be taken directly to Cusco or if we'd have to go to the baggage carousel in Lima. We ended up going to the carousel, and it was absolutely the right decision. As of September 2023, the procedure in Lima is: from the plane to passport control and first through entry into Peru, then to the baggage carousel, then check our luggage back in with LATAM, and only then to the departure gate. Once in Cusco, we only had time for one Pisco Sour at Perucho (they taste really good there) in the San Blas district of the old town!
Day 6: Today is dedicated to Cusco , the former capital of the Inca Empire. We'll start early, walking through the narrow streets of the old town towards the city center and, of course, along Hatun Rumiyoc , one of the best-preserved original Inca streets in Cusco. Here you'll find the famous Twelve-Angle Stone with its perfectly crafted twelve sides. The stone fits with incredible precision against all the surrounding stones, making it impossible to even slide a piece of paper between them. How was this possible back then? Shortly after arriving in the city center, we'll see the main square with its numerous buildings and churches from the Inca and colonial periods. After a stop at an alpaca farm, we'll visit the ruins of Sacsayhuaman with its impressive zigzag walls and Kenko .
Incas, Mayans, Aztecs—who is who, and how do these three civilizations fit together? So, here's another little excursion into our knowledge base with a few details. The Incas (c. 1100 to 1530 AD) lived primarily in western South America. They worshipped a principal god (Inti), built an extensive road network and temples without mortar, using precise joints, and had no writing system. Their decline began with the arrival of the Spanish (F. Pizarro). The Mayans (c. 800 BC to 1530 AD) lived mainly in Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. They never worshipped a specific god, built enormous structures using local materials, and had a writing system. This civilization still exists today. The Aztecs followed in the 15th and 16th centuries and inhabited large parts of Mexico. The Aztecs worshipped a chief god (Huitzilopochtli), built monumental sculptures, and had a complex writing system. They were also defeated by the Spanish (H. Cortes).
Day 7: In the morning, we set off to explore the Sacred Valley, making our first stop in Pisac. This Inca ruin complex above Pisac impresses with its terraced gardens and stunning views of the valley. Pisac has a colorful market, and it's quite pleasant to stroll through the narrow streets. Here, we see the grilled guinea pigs typical of the region for the first time. On the way to Ollantaytambo , we take the plunge and actually try guinea pig, which is chopped up and served whole (head and teeth included). Oh well. Once in Ollantaytambo, we visit the impressive Temple of the Sun , famous for its upright stone blocks. There are quite a few stairs to climb.
Day 8: The next morning, we'll make a quick trip back to the Temple of the Sun for some photos, as the entire complex is now bathed in light from below. We'll take a motorbike taxi to the train station in Ollantaytambo and begin our train journey through the Urubamba Valley and the evergreen rainforest to a highlight of the trip: Machu Picchu . Upon arrival, everyone will need to transfer to a bus shuttle to reach the ruins perched high above the valley. Here, we'll immerse ourselves in the history of the site and be captivated by the mystique of bygone eras. It's incredibly impressive and a truly fantastic experience. In the late afternoon, we'll return to Cusco by train and bus.
It's especially worthwhile to have some more information about Machu Picchu. You can find a few more fascinating details in the Knowledge Corner. One of the most interesting aspects is certainly that the true meaning, or rather the true purpose, of the Inca city of Machu Picchu remains unknown to this day. What is clear is that Machu Picchu was built in 1450 by Pachacuti, the most important ruler of the Inca civilization. All other details remain shrouded in mystery. No one can yet say why Machu Picchu was suddenly abandoned after only 100 years of use. Furthermore, there are only theories about the purpose of this city in the Andes... from a winter residence for the ruler to a center for astronomy and stargazing, to a religious cult site. It's quite astonishing how such a structure could have been built with these enormous stones (similar to the Inca walls) even before the invention of the wheel. The complex Inca irrigation system, which enabled the cultivation of corn and potatoes, still functions perfectly today! Machu Picchu was built by its creators to be earthquake-proof. And all this over 550 years ago.
Day 9: This morning, the journey continues through the highlands. Small and large villages, herds of llamas and alpacas, and vast mountain ranges characterize the landscape. We cross the Abra la Raya pass at 4,338 m. En route, we visit the ruins of Sillustani , a burial site of three cultures situated against a magnificent natural backdrop. In the late afternoon, we reach Puno on Lake Titicaca .
Day 10: In the morning, we leave Peru and, after day 10, have "already" visited two countries. We take a public bus to the Peruvian/Bolivian border. Around midday, we arrive in Copacabana, Bolivia. Incidentally, the name of the world-famous beach in Rio de Janeiro comes from the Virgin of Candelaria (the Mother of God of Bolivia), who is venerated in Copacabana. We check into the Hotel Estelar del Lago Titicaca and have a room on the third floor with a magnificent view of the highest and largest mountain lake in the world (just to remind you: the second largest is Issyk-Kul). In the afternoon, we take a boat to Isla del Sol (Sun Island) , where we go for a short hike and meet some very interesting locals. The stunning scenery with Lake Titicaca and the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Real in the background is breathtaking. Afterward, the boat takes us back to Copacabana.
Day 11: This morning we leave Copacabana and drive to La Paz . A particularly cool part is that our bus has to be loaded onto a small wooden ferry to cross Lake Titicaca to the other side of the road. On the way to La Paz, we stop in El Alto. From El Alto, we use the city's cable cars and, with several transfers, float into the city center of La Paz. It's truly amazing and impressive how such a means of transport works in a metropolis of millions with such extreme topography. It's a really special experience to gondola across the city on the cable cars. Once in the center, we take a short walk through the narrow streets and across the main square, where, of course, we have to disturb the many pigeons. The "special" government building makes for an interesting photo opportunity. Although we only use La Paz for the transfer to Uyuni, the cable car hopping and the short walk in the center still give us a pretty good impression of the metropolis of millions, which is overlooked by the mighty Illimani (6438 m).
Day 12: Transfer to the airport and flight to Uyuni , the gateway to the world's largest salt flat. We travel by 4x4 vehicles, first to the railway cemetery , considered the largest graveyard for old railway vehicles. Since the 1940s, with the abandonment of most of the mines, the infrastructure was also abandoned, and so the old locomotives rust away. We then drive towards the desert and can already see an immense white expanse from afar. We continue driving, and it is indescribably fascinating and overwhelming. In the middle of the desert, we can get out and continue on foot while our drivers prepare a picnic. We walk across a seemingly endless white salt flat and are completely captivated by the unique beauty of the landscape. The silence is particularly fascinating. We stop, and all around us is simply stillness... fantastic. We have lunch in the middle of the desert, and it feels almost supernatural. After lunch, we visit Incahuasi, the cactus island located in the middle of the Salar. A must-do experience, as the island's summit offers a magnificent panoramic view of the salt flats, allowing you to grasp the sheer scale of this desert. We can also clearly see the Tunupa volcano on the northern shore, overlooking the Salar. In the evening, we'll enjoy the sunset over the salt flats with wine and snacks. We'll spend a truly unique night in a hotel partially constructed of salt.
Day 13: In the morning, we drive again through the endless expanses of the salt flats and past the active Ollagüe volcano. The stark and unique landscape continues to captivate us, even though we're struggling a bit with the cold and altitude sickness. After lunch, we drive to various lagoons in the highlands and observe flamingos searching for food in this seemingly inhospitable region. We then immerse ourselves in the fantastic, surreal desert landscape of the Siloli with its bizarre rock formations and are delighted by our encounter with the cute and very tame viscachas . We spend the night in a guesthouse in the middle of nowhere on the Altiplano, where we try to warm up by the wood-burning stove. The walk to the freezing cold room/bed (6 degrees Celsius) is tough. And by the way, we're sleeping at 4,600 meters! All in all, this is something for the hardy.
Day 14: The next morning is even tougher. Getting out of the warm bed takes some willpower. Washing is out of the question; it's simply too cold. We quickly get dressed and head for the stove. In the lodge, condensation drips from the ceilings. Still tired and frozen, we set off and climb to an altitude of 5,005 meters. We reach the Sol de Mañana geyser field , where the volcanic origin of the region is particularly evident. Later, the journey continues through the Bolivian highlands, past secluded lagoons and smoking volcanoes. In this vast and solitary landscape, there is actually a small border crossing into Chile. In the afternoon, we reach the tourist oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama . In the Atacama Desert, the driest place on Earth, we visit the Valley of the Moon and enjoy the sunset against the backdrop of the Andes.
Day 15: In the morning, we head to the airport again and fly south to Chile's capital. After a short stop at the hotel, we explore the center of the Latin American metropolis, Santiago de Chile . Our itinerary includes the Mercado Central, the Plaza de Armas , the National Museum, the Moneda Palace (the presidential palace where Salvador Allende is believed to have committed suicide), the Pablo Neruda House, the artists' quarter around Cerro Santa Lucia , and the tallest building in South America (the Gran Torre, at 300 meters). Santiago leaves a mixed impression: parts of it are very beautiful, while large areas are also quite run-down with dirty and ugly buildings.
Day 16: We take a day trip to Valparaiso (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). We stroll through the long streets with their typical colorful houses and numerous graffiti-covered facades, and ride an old-fashioned cable car right among the buildings. Unfortunately, we only see a few parts of this unique city because our tour operator does a poor job. Afterward, we drive along the Pacific coast to the garden city of Viña del Mar and, on the way back to Santiago, visit one of the traditional wineries in the Casablanca Valley.
Day 17: We head back to the airport for the fifth stop on our tour: the tango metropolis of Buenos Aires . Let me say right away, Buenos Aires is beautiful and has earned its nickname, "Paris of South America." During our city tour, we visit the Plaza de Mayo , the site of the revolution that led to Argentina's independence in 1810, the cathedral , and the vibrant La Boca neighborhood . In the evening, we dress up a bit for the first time on our vacation and attend a tango show with dinner... a fantastic experience.
Day 18: We wanted to experience a real Argentinian estancia in the countryside, so today we're heading out into the Argentinian Pampas . Incidentally, the Pampas isn't a negative word like it is for us. In Argentina, it's the largest agricultural region in South America and the center of cattle ranching. So, we first visited the village of San Antonio de Areco, where we got a good insight into life on the Pampas, and then drove to the Estancia "El Ombu de Areco." We got a glimpse into life and work on this ranch, and of course, we enjoyed a traditional meal with various grilled meats. With full stomachs, we headed back to Buenos Aires.
Day 19: We boarded another plane, this time bound for Puerto Iguazu , nestled in the heart of the tropical rainforest. Due to unforeseen circumstances, we first visited the Brazilian side of the famous falls and endured the border crossing procedures. The breathtaking natural spectacle of the 270 waterfalls more than made up for it. Our conclusion right from the start: we found the Brazilian side of the falls more interesting and intense, even though the Argentinian side is often touted as superior online. Perhaps this is because the Brazilian side begins rather unspectacularly. From the first parking lot at the Belmond Hotel, you can see the waterfall, and while it's nice, that's about it. It's crucial to hike the entire trail, as this allows you to experience the panoramic views of the falls and, at the end, walk onto the bridge right at the edge of the falls (Devil's Throat). You'll eventually emerge at a different parking lot and may need to return to your car. Definitely hike the entire trail. It's also important to mention that without appropriate clothing, you'll get completely soaked at the falls (Salto Santa Maria) – everything! On the way back, we decided to take a helicopter tour. It was also very beautiful and impressive to see the falls, although we definitely preferred the flight over Victoria Falls.
Day 20: Today you'll visit the Argentinian side. We'll take a small train into the park to the final stop. From there, it's also possible to walk across bridges right to the edge of the waterfall. Incidentally, both viewpoints (in Brazil and Argentina) are called "Devil's Throat." As mentioned, they are very impressive, very loud, and of course, wet. However, if you're short on time, we recommend visiting the Devil's Throat at Salto Santa Maria in Brazil. Around midday, we'll leave the falls and head... once again to the airport for our flight to Rio de Janeiro, our sixth and final country on our South America tour. After arriving at the hotel, we'll head straight to Copacabana . It's a world unto itself (floodlights illuminate the entire beach), and we'll enjoy our first caipirinhas.
Day 21: Today our sightseeing program begins with the famous postcard view of Sugarloaf Mountain . It's a real "James Bond" moment – let's just say Jaws! We visit the Marcana Stadium , stroll through the city center, and climb the stairs in the Selarón district . By the way, there's a great caipirinha stand to the right of the entrance to the stairs, serving delicious caipirinhas. In the afternoon, we head to Ipanema Beach and discover that Copacabana is even better.
Day 22: On the last day, our destination is the Christ the Redeemer statue on Corcovado Mountain. We take a leisurely cog railway up, but unfortunately, due to fog, we can't enjoy the view of the city. Every now and then, however, Christ emerges from the mist. Afterwards, we relax a bit on the beach, and then our bus arrives to take us to the airport, and we have to begin our journey home.