Namibia
Day 1: On the way to Frankfurt to catch our flight, we're still a little skeptical that the trip will actually happen. But there it is, the flight is on the departure board, the plane is there, we can board, and we take off for Windhoek. After hours wearing masks on the train, at the airport, and on the plane, our ears are aching from the mask straps. Never mind... our vacation is almost here.
Day 2: We landed early in Windhoek and were indeed in Namibia. The arrival was incredibly well-organized. We drove to the beautiful Voigtland Guestfarm and were able to enjoy the first few hours relaxing on the expansive grounds. And there was a fantastic highlight right away: we got to hand-feed a giraffe. What sounds unusual is indeed unusual and has a special story behind it. To survive economically during the lockdown with no tourists in the country, the farm bought three giraffes and offered Namibians a special excursion package including coffee and cake, and, of course, giraffe encounters. This brought in a little money, and the farm owners looked at us with wide eyes, as if our government had simply provided taxpayer money to businesses that had no income.
Day 3: Today we drive to Windhoek's city center for a morning stroll to explore its colonial past and experience the modern, multicultural pulse of Namibia's capital. The Christ Church , the Independence Memorial , and a selfie with Sam Nujoma, Namibia's first president, are on the agenda. A visit to the train station is also worthwhile; everything there seems to have been frozen in time. Since Namibia is all about tranquility, we leave the metropolis and head south into the Namib Desert . The Namib is the oldest desert in the world (80 million years old!) and is famous for its towering sand dunes, which change color depending on the position of the sun and the humidity. Our camp is located not far from the world-famous Sossusvlei, nestled amidst this magnificent dune landscape. In typical African fashion, we sit around a campfire for dinner, enjoying the vastness and captivating beauty of the landscape and the unique play of light.
Day 4: Early morning is the time to experience the unique interplay of light and shadow most intensely. So we set off early into the heart of the Namib Desert, to the reddish-brown dunes at Sossusvlei. A 4x4 shuttle then takes us the last few kilometers to Deadvlei . Once there, we are awestruck by the sheer size of these dunes and can't imagine climbing them. We have a very athletic guide who leads the way, because climbing such high dunes is truly strenuous. So strenuous, in fact, that two of our companions had to abandon the climb due to exhaustion, and one had to stop because of a fear of heights. We continue our struggle up the steep ascent through the sand. Two steps forward, and you immediately slide back down in the loose sand. It's tough, but it's absolutely worth it. Reaching the crest of the dunes, the breathtaking view of the endless sand desert is indescribable. Definitely do it and experience it. The descent is also an adventure. We jump and slide down the dune... great fun! Reaching the bottom, we were greeted by the famous, bizarre landscape of dry, dead camel thorn branches reaching towards the sky. A must-see for photography enthusiasts . On the way back, we visited the 30-meter -deep Sesriem Canyon and embarked on a short hike through the narrow, shady gorge. Back at camp, we relaxed with a gin and tonic, reflecting on a day that had left a lasting impression.
Day 5: We continue our journey north to Swakopmund on the Atlantic coast. The drive through the desert offers more stunning views of the landscape. After the long drive, we arrive in Swakopmund and set off for a stroll around town. The town is beautiful with its numerous colonial buildings and seaside atmosphere, and it has a distinctly German feel, including the Bismarck Pharmacy, the Hansa Hotel, and the Gebauer hair salon. We still skipped the Black Forest cherry cake at Café Anton, though... after all, we're still in Africa.
Day 6: We spent the entire day exploring around Swakopmund. We started with a highly recommended excursion into the Namib Desert for a Little Five safari . Standing in the middle of the desert, we wondered how any animals could possibly be observed there. However, our guide was absolutely fantastic and unerringly located the small desert inhabitants. We were initially skeptical about whether such a tour would be exciting, but looking back, we can say that it was truly fascinating to discover the incredible diversity of small animals in the desert. In the afternoon, we took a scenic flight over the Namib Desert and its dunes, seeing Deadvlei from a bird's-eye view. On the return flight, we flew along the coast to the shipwrecks of Conception Bay. It would be a real shame to only use Swakopmund as a transit point, as both this small coastal town and the surrounding area have a great deal to offer.
Day 7: Today we are to meet the Bushmen . We drive to the San living museum at the Omandumba Farm. Here, the San people show us their ancient culture, and we learn more about their traditional way of life and the balancing act between customs and modernity. The village has made it its mission to preserve the centuries-old traditions of the San and to support their people in the present day. We receive interesting explanations and deep insights into the San culture, as well as into the current concerns of the group. We also hear the Bushmen's click language for the first time. Back in the safari truck, we spend a long time reflecting on the experience. We arrive in Uis in the evening. The Brandberg Massif, with Namibia's highest peak, shimmers on the horizon in the beautiful evening light. What a day!
Day 8: After breakfast at our accommodation, the Uis Guesthouse, we rented fat bikes and set off with our guide to explore the surrounding area. To our surprise, we suddenly found ourselves riding across a rather large plain, which turned out to be Uis International Airport . We had just accidentally cycled across the runway and discovered the "terminal" in a tiny, locked shack. Presumably, no one held it against us for breaching airport security during our bike ride on the sand and gravel track. After lunch, an absolute highlight of the trip awaited us: a game drive in a 4x4 vehicle, searching for Namibia's native desert elephants . Their population roams an area roughly the size of Lower Saxony, between the Huab and Ugab dry riverbeds. This safari tour is an absolute must-do.
Day 9: We set off again. The landscape appears barren, the mountains shimmer rust-red, reflecting the heat. Suddenly, Twyfelfontein comes into view with its more than 2,500 rock engravings and paintings, considered one of the greatest works of art in southern Africa. During a hike, you can also visit the Petrified Forest, where tree trunks lie crisscrossed. Millions of years old, they are a real eye-catcher. A glimpse behind the scenes awaits at the nearby "Living Museum" of the Damara , the first traditional Damara project in Namibia and the only one of its kind. Nowhere else can you learn about the traditional Damara culture in this way. Along with the Bushmen, the Damara are considered the "original inhabitants" of Namibia. After another day full of impressions, we reach the Vingerklip Lodge on a vast farm. Definitely try to stay there, as you have the option of enjoying dinner at a lofty height on the lodge's plateau in the Eagle's Nest. The view and the atmosphere during the sunset are beyond words. It has to go on the bucket list.
Day 10: The journey continues through the wild and romantic landscape of Damaraland, with its African savannah, sandy dry riverbeds, and imposing granite cliffs north of Khorixas. Today we will learn more about the Himba and Herero peoples . The Himba migrated to Namibia from present-day Botswana several centuries ago. Through missionary work, the Herero became more influenced by Western culture and adopted their traditional clothing, which is still typical today. The Himba traditionally do not wear Western clothing and are mostly naked. Incidentally, for women, the ankles are considered erogenous zones and are therefore covered, while the breasts are not. You can find more fascinating and unusual facts in the knowledge section.
Herero women are striking for their distinctive, Victorian-influenced style of dress. They don't wear these clothes as tourist costumes, but rather as everyday attire, a proud expression of their culture. The Herero also make use of their unique appearance. No photograph is allowed without first purchasing a colorful doll dressed in Herero clothing. A curious fact about the horned hats: to ensure the intricately tied hats and horns look their best, they are stuffed with newspaper. In contrast to the Herero, the Himba maintain their ancient customs. Their clothing consists only of a loincloth, their skin is protected by a reddish-brown grease-ochre mixture, their hairstyles are extraordinary, and the women hold a prominent position within the tribe. Incidentally, due to the aridity, they rarely wash themselves. Instead, they "shower" in the smoke of burning herbs and wood. And as mentioned earlier, you won't see a woman's ankles, as these are considered the erogenous zones of Himba women.
Day 11: We arrived in the Etosha National Park last night and today we have the whole day to explore the wildlife reserve in search of lions, elephants, eland (the largest antelope), Damara dik-dik (the smallest antelope), giraffes, and other animals. Our route also takes us through the heart of the park, the vast Etosha Salt Pan. Experiencing the animals in their natural habitat is always a very special experience, and we are enjoying the moment and the feeling of being in the heart of Africa.
Day 12: Today we again experience game drives in open 4x4 vehicles through Etosha National Park . "The great wide place of dry water" is one of the largest protected areas in the world and boasts a high density of wildlife. Unlike in the Serengeti or Hwange National Park, for example, it is not permitted to leave the designated tracks, so excellent binoculars and a telephoto lens are essential for wildlife viewing.
Day 13: We continue on to Waterberg , a tragic chapter in German colonial history and the mountain of destiny for the Herero people. Afterwards, we arrive at the Waterberg Wilderness Lodge , which rises like an oasis on the edge of the Kalahari. In the afternoon, we experience our first encounters with animals in the lodge's own game reserve and have the opportunity to see the rare rhinos, guarded by a ranger, on a walking safari . To encounter these animals at such close range is a truly special experience.
Day 14: Today we visit AfriCat . This foundation is dedicated to saving big cats. We travel by 4x4 to the information center. Here we receive a detailed briefing and a behind-the-scenes look at the work and rehabilitation of endangered cheetahs and other wild cats such as caracals, wild dogs, and hyenas. There are numerous photo opportunities . We are slowly making our way back to the Windhoek region. We spend one last night in Africa at the idyllic Eningu Lodge. You will enjoy one last culinary treat of Namibia in the lodge's restaurant and will wish you could stay longer.
Day 15: We spent our last hours in Namibia at the lodge, hiking around the farm and trying to process our impressions from the past few days. Finally, it was time to pack our suitcases, as we were leaving for our flight the next morning, and we had to dig our FFP2 masks out from the very back of the suitcase.