Mauritius - Reunion - Seychelles
Day 1: Africa like you've never seen it before, and then there's Réunion. Africa, with Mauritius and the Seychelles, is probably not the Africa we typically imagine, and it isn't. The Seychelles, in particular, boast some of the most beautiful beaches in the world and the most exclusive hotels. Mauritius is a wonderful mix of everything: landscapes, beaches, water sports, culture, food, drink, and adventure. Réunion was a real scenic "surprise." It was also somewhat surprising that we significantly underestimated our expenses. The flights with Air Austral between Mauritius and Réunion were a drama in themselves. Perhaps that's a bit of a spoiler; the details will follow. In any case, we head to the airport early in the evening and fly via Dubai to Mauritius.
Day 2: We arrive at our hotel in Mauritius near the famous Flic en Flac beach and, thanks to our booked half board, can enjoy a relaxing evening in the restaurant.
Day 3: Today is a beach day. We deliberately chose not to do a stressful tour on this trip, so after sleeping in, we're going to grab our swimsuits and explore what is probably the most famous beach in Mauritius , Flic en Flac . Since we're staying on the neighboring Wolmar Beach, we'll set off on foot. Because of the beach's popularity, there are also some great hotels there, but they don't have any roped-off sections of the beach, so we can just jump into the sea whenever we feel like it during our walk. After about 3 kilometers, you reach the village of Flic en Flac at the end of the beach. We stop at the supermarket and, with a cold beer and some snacks, head back to the beach... wonderful. On the way back, we stop at the Hibiscus Bar (the Hilton Hotel's beach bar). They have some pretty great cocktails, but they're not exactly cheap. The atmosphere is really cool, though, probably because it's just a bar right on the beach.
Day 4: Today is actually sightseeing day. We still set off at a leisurely pace around 9:00 a.m., walking to the bus terminal in Flic en Flac for the capital of Mauritius: Port Louis . After an "interesting" bus ride (any vehicle inspector would have a heart attack on such a bus), we stroll through the city. Worth seeing are the Chinese quarter with its " Manga Street ," the Waterfront district, the Citadel , and of course, the museum with the Blue Mauritius stamp. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited throughout the museum . Furthermore, the original stamp is only illuminated for a few minutes every hour. So, it's a good idea to ask at the museum when the display case will next be illuminated if you want to see the original. On the bus ride back, the driver tries to get rid of us before we even reach the final stop. As the last passengers on the bus, we manage to convince him that we absolutely have to go to the final stop, otherwise the walk back to the hotel will be too long, and we succeed.
Day 5: There's no time for leisure today either. We booked a private tour in the southwest of the island from Germany. With our guide, we'll visit the classic sights of Mauritius: Chamarel Waterfall and the Seven Coloured Earth, Black River Gorges National Park with Alexandra Falls , Ganga Talao , and the Trou aux Cerfs volcano. As a full-day tour with a fairly varied itinerary, it's definitely an exciting excursion, especially if you don't want to rent a car.
6. The concession for my better half on our last day in Mauritius was: rest. So we chilled at the hotel and enjoyed our time by and in the water. Incidentally, I tried stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) for the first time. Definitely an interesting experience. Everything was great near the beach, but as soon as the waves picked up further out, I kept falling off the board. Overall, I still don't quite understand what SUPs are supposed to be good for. We spent our last evening at a restaurant and, looking back, agreed that Mauritius is a beautiful island overall. The beaches are great, but not spectacular, and you need a bit of cash. Despite having half-board, we still spent a good 300 EUR on food and drinks during our five days on the island.
Day 7: Onward to Reunion . Now comes the first part of the story of the Air Austral flight drama. We had booked flight UU 105 from Mauritius to Reunion. Before the trip, we discovered that this flight was canceled almost daily. Since we had a connecting itinerary on Reunion, a flight cancellation would have been problematic, as we would have had to rebook our rental car and hotels. So we tried to find out the reasons for the cancellations. Unfortunately, without success. After several sleepless nights, we actually decided to book an additional flight, MK 228, with Air Mauritius, which was also scheduled for the same time. So we had two tickets for the same route that day. We booked the second flight, the backup in case Air Austral was canceled, with a cancellation option. Fortunately, the local travel agency had a contact at Air Austral, so we received timely notification that the flight was indeed operating and were able to cancel the "double ticket" in time. That was really exciting, and nobody needs that kind of nonsense before a vacation. The next part about this will come a little later, regarding the return flight from Reunion to Mauritius. In the end, we arrived in Reunion as originally planned, picked up our rental car, and drove to our first stop on the island, Hell-Bourg in the Cirque de Salazie. It's only about 45 km, but even on that short drive, we were immediately blown away. The landscape is absolutely stunning... impressive mountains, incredibly lush vegetation, numerous waterfalls, and the sea. A truly picturesque and diverse area. After many hairpin bends, our little, battered Renault Clio arrived in the small mountain village of Hell-Bourg, which, by the way, is one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Day 8: Today's hike is to the Trou de Fer . A typical tour from Hell-Bourg . After breakfast at our small guesthouse, we would normally drive about 20 minutes to the Gìte de Bèlouve trailhead parking lot . However, due to a storm and a road closure, it's inaccessible, so we have to start hiking directly from the guesthouse. We're already feeling quite tired on this first stretch from the guesthouse to the parking lot. The steep mountains are calling. Moreover, this part of the hike is quite challenging on the rocky and slippery path, especially since my companion doesn't have proper hiking boots. After almost 600 meters of steep ascent, we arrive in Bèlouve, change our sweaty shirts, refill our water bottles at the mountain hut, and march towards the Trou de Fer . The path largely follows wooden boardwalks and stones through beautiful, unspoiled nature. Upon reaching the viewing platform , we're lucky, and the valley basin with the waterfall briefly appears through the clouds. The return hike to the hut at the trailhead parking lot is great, but then from Gìte de Bèlouve down to Hell-Bourg it's a steep descent again. We're glad to be back before dark, we're pretty exhausted, and after a quick dinner in town, we go to bed quite early.
Day 9: Before continuing our journey, we enjoy the impressive mountain panorama of the Cirque des Salazie in glorious weather. Back in the car, we descend the winding roads towards the coast near Saint-André, with our destination for the day in the La Plaine des Cafres region. It's only a few kilometers as the crow flies, but because of the mountains, we have to drive halfway around the island. This also gives us the opportunity for a few nice stops along the way. St. Anne's Church in Saint-Benoît is beautiful and looks a bit like a sandcastle. Be sure to stop at Notre Dame de Laves , a church surrounded by lava. Afterwards, we head to Anse des Cascades , a fantastic park with several waterfalls. Shortly after, the drive along the lava fields of the " Grand Brüle " is very impressive, and just before heading back up into the mountains, be sure to stop at the Pointe de la Ravine des Cafres viewpoint. In the late afternoon, we reach our destination in the mountains : Bourg Murat . We spontaneously decide to drive to the Belvédère de Bois Court ; the view into the abyss is impressive.
Day 10: We're up early today. We want to hike to the crater rim of Piton de la Fournaise . We drive along many narrow switchbacks and gravel tracks to the trailhead parking lot at Pas de Bellcombe , the starting point of the hike. It takes about an hour by car from the Plaine des Cafres region. The hike to the crater and back takes about 6 to 7 hours, including breaks. The start is fantastic, and the descent into the caldera is great because you have beautiful views of the secondary craters and can see the cone of Piton de la Fournaise wonderfully. Unfortunately, it's quite overcast in the morning. The entire trail is marked with white dots on the ground, so getting lost, even in dense fog, is impossible. The path is quite easy until the ascent to the main crater. After that, it gets tough, as it leads up over some very difficult terrain. You are rewarded with fantastic views, and the view into the crater is impressive (see picture) and also eerie, especially when you consider that this volcano is very active (last eruption in 2023, with several eruptions per year). After a hearty snack at the crater rim, we make the arduous journey back to the trailhead parking lot. We are completely exhausted from the hike, and we still haven't gotten a good photo of the volcanic cone. It's also completely hazy and cloudy. We just want to go back to the hotel. But somehow we have a feeling that something might still happen. And indeed, after a few minutes, this total soup of clouds and fog lifts, and we can see the volcanic cone in all its glory. An incredible experience, as the light and the clouds create a particularly beautiful atmosphere. For the moment, all the pain is forgotten, and we savor these moments. This hike is definitely a top attraction on Reunion and one that you absolutely shouldn't miss.
Day 11: The next day, our bones were definitely feeling it. Luckily, we had a transfer day to Cilaos . So, after breakfast, we hopped in the car and drove back down the mountains to the coast, to Saint-Louis, and from there back up into the mountains to the Cirque de Cilaos . The drive through the landscape was fantastic, if only it weren't for all the curves. The agency had kindly warned us that this route was very winding through the mountains. It was a good thing that our legs, not our arms, ached from the hike the day before, and that the steering in our little Renault was quite pleasant. With stiff legs, we got out of the car in Cilaos, checked in, and even took a quick stroll around the town. Cilaos is really quite charming, nestled in the mountains with amazing views.
Day 12: There are plenty of hikes in the region. We opted for the popular ' Bras Rouge Tour' from Cilaos via Bassin Alfred . Although the hike is only 12 km, it's quite challenging due to the steepness of the mountains on Réunion. Unfortunately, we were also battling a slight cold. The initial descent into the valley is fairly moderate. The first very steep climb to Bassin Alfred then begins. Once there, it's a wonderful spot for a long break. We dangled our legs in the river, ate our packed lunch, and watched the daring young people jumping down the waterfall into the basin. As beautiful as it was, we had to move on, as the next steep climb begins immediately after the waterfall. After tackling grueling switchbacks, we reached the top exhausted and slightly feverish, so we decided to catch the bus back to Cilaos, which, of course, had just left a few minutes earlier (the next one wasn't for another 1.5 hours). So, it was back to hiking. We were very happy to be back in town. Despite the exertion, we immediately realized that this was one of the most beautiful hikes we have ever done. The scenery in this area and the route itself are breathtakingly beautiful.
Day 13: It's a good thing that after yesterday's hike, today is another transfer day. We're driving on to St. Denis , completing our circumnavigation of the island. There isn't a huge amount to see in St. Denis, so a beach visit can easily be included along the way. The island's best beaches are mainly located in the northwest of Réunion . We chose Plage de l'Hermitage and are tending to our aching muscles in the shade of the trees. Arriving at the hotel in St. Denis, the second part of the story of the Air Austral flight drama begins. Flight UU 102 back to Mauritius was canceled just as frequently as the outbound flight UU 105. This was the reason for the "double booking" with Air Mauritius mentioned on day 7. However, since flight UU 105 "surprisingly" operated on day 7, we canceled the backup flights at that time. This time, we were dependent on the Air Austral flight. So, I contacted the local agency again and then got in touch with my friend at Air Austral, and sure enough, the return flight also took place as scheduled. That both flights went ahead as planned... almost surreal after the endless cancellations beforehand. Incidentally, Air Austral has discontinued direct flights between Reunion and the Seychelles (as of 2024). This should therefore be taken into account when planning a trip combining Mauritius, Reunion, and the Seychelles.
Day 14: The alarm rings very early, as the flight departs at 7:00 a.m. and we still have to return the rental car. It's great that the rental car companies on Reunion allow you to return the documents/keys via a drop box. That was very convenient, and after a short walk, we're already in the terminal. First, the flight back to Mauritius. Then, unfortunately, a 5-hour layover for the flight from Mauritius to the Seychelles. Since there are no more ferries running in the Seychelles in the late afternoon, we head to the domestic terminal for our connecting flight to Praslin , unfortunately on a small Twin Otter plane. That's not for tall people or the faint-hearted.
Day 15: What do you do on your first day on the Seychelles island of Praslin ? Obviously: either Anse Lazio or Anse Georgette . For tactical reasons, we opted for Anse Lazio, as access to Anse Georgette requires a permit . After breakfast, we went to the hotel reception, who kindly arranged the permit for us over the phone for the following day. We immediately ordered a taxi and headed to the beach. Upon arrival, it became clear why Anse Lazio is regularly voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It's a dream of a beach. Soft sand, crystal-clear turquoise water, fantastic waves framed by a bay of palm trees and granite boulders. It's simply perfect idyll. Speaking of waves, for some, getting into deep water through the waves can be tricky. Catrin was one of them. So I knew exactly what would happen when she headed out into the water alone. I was standing on the beach, already smiling... as she waded into the water, a large wave hit, she disappeared in the churning, churning water, and I pulled her out of the surf with wide eyes. Completely fed up, she wanted to go back to her towel. After some gentle persuasion, with the "right technique" and holding her hand, we plunged into the water together and then didn't want to get out at all. Well, even the best beach day has to end sometime, and thanks to the kind owner of a beach restaurant, we were able to save ourselves the expensive taxi ride back. The walk back is quite strenuous, so we were grateful to be able to hitch a ride for part of the way. After visiting Anse Boudin and Anse Takamaka , we took the bus for the last leg to Anse Volbert ( Note : no cash payments accepted on the bus ; a card is required).
Day 16: Today we're visiting the famous Anse Georgette . Why famous? It's said to be the most beautiful beach in the Seychelles and, of course, one of the most beautiful in the world. You need a permit from a luxury hotel, and getting there is a bit of a special process. But let's start at the beginning. Our hotel had arranged the permit the day before. Check. Getting there is special because we're taking the bus, and given the bus's condition, we regularly have our doubts about even arriving. That goes well, though. Now we have to decide how to get to the beach on foot. Either through the grounds of the Lemuria Hotel, where we already have a permit, or via the ' Georgette Nature Trail ,' which doesn't require a permit. We take the trail and are very happy that after the bus stop at the Lemuria Hotel, the next bus stop is right on the trail. If you want to hike, be sure to take the bus all the way to the last stop , as the road from the hotel up to the trailhead is very steep. The hike on the trail is highly recommended, as it leads through stunning scenery, offers fantastic views, and then there's the famous "Instagram rock" overlooking Anse Georgette. After descending and arriving at the beach, there's a definite "wow" factor. It's an absolutely gorgeous beach. After a long day at the beach, we take the return route through the hotel. Incidentally, we aren't checked at the exit to see if we have permission to use the hotel grounds. We take the bus back. At the Cote d'Or / Anse Volbert bus stop, there's a food truck serving sensational fish burgers... a perfect end to the day.
Day 17: We "hop" to the next island. The ferry takes us to the neighboring island of La Digue in just 20 minutes. Apart from a few taxis and construction vehicles, this is a car-free island, and you should definitely rent a bicycle . The hotel at Anse Patates has plenty of bikes available, so we grab one and spend the rest of the day simply cycling around the island.
Day 18: Today, beach hopping is on the agenda again. After breakfast, we hop on our bikes, pack our food and swimwear, and cycle southeast, crossing the island. Along the way, Catrin takes an unintentional detour, bike and all, into a hedge, which thankfully ends relatively well. The bike path then ends right at Grand Anse. When we park our bikes, we discover that the towel and food have apparently fallen out of the bike basket during the accident. So, we have to be careful with our drinking water. Oh well, with slightly dampened spirits, we head off to the beaches. We hike along Grand Anse, Petit Anse, and Anse Cocos . The path between the beaches leads over rocks. They are all beautiful beaches that are definitely worth seeing. Swimming is only for the very brave due to the currents ( there is a very good swimming spot among the rocks at Anse Cocos ). To our relief, there is a small beach bar at Anse Cocos. They have very tasty fresh fruit juices. We can also refill our water supplies. We return to the bikes along the same path. Next, we want to go to what is probably the most famous beach of all, Anse Source d'Argent . Thanks to the Bacardi and Raffaello Rocher commercials, it's supposedly the most photographed beach in the world. The beach is located on the grounds of Union Estate Farm and there's an entrance fee. After the ticket booth, we cycle a little further to the parking lot (by the way, we find the towel and supplies in the bushes at the site of this morning's accident) and from there walk to the beach. To be honest, it doesn't really blow us away... sure, it's nice, but it's not *that* special.
Day 19: Today we're heading to a special beach, Anse Caiman . We can only cycle as far as Anse Fourmis . After that, it's not hiking, but more like climbing. After an adventurous 40-minute scramble along the coastline, we reach the beach. There's a great beach bar and, most importantly, two rock pools where you can float around and let the waves toss you about. Unfortunately, the return trip over the rocks isn't without its mishaps. As I round the corner, Catrin is standing there with bleeding legs and arms, and I get a huge shock. While climbing and taking photos, the envelope containing all our cash slips out of her bag and is blown down the rocks by the wind. In the frantic scramble to chase after the envelope, the granite rocks tear open our skin, and we even break our phones. We manage to get back to our bikes. We rinsed our wounds in the saltwater and bought some extra-large bandages at the island pharmacy. After the initial shock subsided, we realized we were broke and hoped we could withdraw cash from an ATM. We definitely needed cash to pay the environmental tax, which has been mandatory in the Seychelles since August 1, 2023. On this tiny island, we now had to find an ATM and "pray" that one would actually dispense money. This worked out fairly easily. With our heads hanging low, we went to dinner, and one of us, in pain, cycled back to the hotel. What a day.
Day 20: After the tours of the last few days, we can relax a bit today and tend to our aches and pains. At the hotel, we find a nice corner with a large, covered double sun lounger and enjoy the day until our ferry crossing to the last island of our trip: Mahé . The ferry from La Digue to Mahé takes about 1.5 hours. In the evening, there's a Creole buffet at the hotel. After such a relaxing day, we're already eager to explore the island of Mahé again.
Day 21: The evening before, we organized a rental car, which we plan to use to explore the island today. Since we've planned to visit the island's capital tomorrow, we're heading to the beaches in the south of Mahé. Driving on the left is really strange, but we manage without any major problems. We visit Anse Royal , Anse Forbans , Police Bay , Anse Intendance , and Anse Soleil in succession. Police Bay is the most beautiful, but unfortunately dangerous for swimming. Anse Intendance is also gorgeous, and we take full advantage of it for a swim. Anse Soleil is quite charming, and we even take another dip there. On the way back to the hotel, we discover a small snack bar nearby that makes fantastic burgers. Next door at the grocery store, they also have delicious rum cocktails. A day like this could be worse.
Day 22: Today we're off to Victoria , reputedly the smallest capital city in the world with just 25,000 inhabitants. We've explored the city. The Clock Tower , the Market Hall , the Cathedral , and the Botanic Gardens are all worth seeing. After sightseeing, there's still time for a hike to the Trois Frères Viewpoint . A few hundred meters past the ticket booth, you can park your car in the parking lot at the trailhead. The hike is short but strenuous. The view of Victoria and the surrounding area is breathtaking . I've rarely experienced such a viewpoint. On the way back, we stop again at the wonderful snack bar and stock up on cold rum cocktails.
Day 23: We have a late-night flight from Mahé to Dubai, so we can make the most of the hotel's amenities on our last day. We spend the day relaxing on a comfortable lounge chair. After visiting five islands in the Indian Ocean, we head home with the realization that the Seychelles really do charge a premium for their name. Basically, everything is expensive, and the experience isn't worth the price. However, we're too lazy today to walk the steep paths from the hotel to our favorite snack bar, so we enjoy the hotel's Creole buffet again and head to the airport after dinner. And finally, a fun fact in the trivia corner: Mauritius, Réunion, and the Seychelles were never inhabited by any indigenous people.