Japan
Day 1: For us Central Europeans, a trip to Japan involves a very long journey. We're talking about roughly 13 hours for a direct flight in the "good direction" to Japan, and 14 to 15 hours for the return flight from Japan with a headwind. We knew beforehand that we couldn't manage that. So we flew with Emirates via Dubai to Tokyo, were happy for the break, and arrived at Tokyo Narita Airport feeling quite refreshed. Through the agency, we booked a personal airport assistant who greeted us in German with a lovely Dutch accent. This service included exchanging the voucher for the JR Pass, buying Suica cards (for buses and the subway), and accompanying us to the hotel. Experienced travelers can certainly manage all of this on their own, but for us, it was a wonderfully relaxed start to our vacation to have everything taken care of. At the hotel, we also got rental Wi-Fi (definitely book it). Afterwards, we'll relax and enjoy sushi to round off the evening, looking forward to a fantastic tour through this fascinating travel destination. You can find some interesting facts about Japan, a fascinating travel destination, in our knowledge section.
Japan is the oldest hereditary monarchy (2,700 years), has the world's busiest train station (Shinjuku) with 3.5 million passengers per day!, and sells the world's most expensive tuna (2.7 million euros). Children have to learn around 2,100 characters, and almost 40 million people live in the capital city. Incidentally, white lies are a form of politeness in Japan, and luck isn't something you have, but rather something you buy in the form of lucky dip tickets at shrines.
Day 2: Today we explore Tokyo's unique blend of tradition and modernity. We'll start by visiting the famous Sensoji Temple in Asakusa. Afterwards, we'll return to the well-known Tsukiji Fish Market and from there walk through the Hamarikyu Gardens to Tokyo Tower . From there, a detour to Shibuya to see the " Everyone Walks Intersection " is worthwhile. Finally, a visit to the Tokyo Skytree is a must, currently the third tallest structure in the world after the Burj Khalifa and PNB 118. To ensure access to both levels of the tower, you should definitely book your ticket online in advance. Using the QR code, you can then purchase tickets from separate machines. It's worth noting that we've only planned one day for the city, as Tokyo is a hyper-modern megacity and, by comparison, has less cultural significance.
Day 3: In the morning, we depart from Tokyo for our day trip to the beautiful seaside city of Kamakura . During the Kamakura period (1185-1333), the city was the capital (Shogunate) and therefore boasts numerous shrines and temples from that era. In Kamakura, it's recommended to get off at the Kita-Kamakura bus stop. From there, the Engaku-ji and Kencho-ji temples, located just outside the city, are less crowded. Climbing the stairs to the top of the Kencho-ji temple is a particularly rewarding experience, and on a clear day, you'll be rewarded with a magnificent view. Incidentally, two cherry trees stand at the entrance to Kencho-ji, making for a fantastic photo opportunity with the gate . On the way into the city, you'll pass the Tsurugaoka Shrine , the largest and most important Shinto site in the prefecture, offering a stunning vista. During your visit, the Zeniarai Shrine, Sasuke Inari Shrine, Hase dera, and of course the Kotoku (Bronze Buddha) are definitely worth seeing. Since we've already used some less common words, let's turn to our lovely knowledge corner.
What exactly is the difference between shrines and temples, and what is a Shinto site? Let's start at the beginning. You almost always enter a temple through a magnificent gate, which is a proper building. At the entrance, you'll usually find fearsome guardian deities. Incense sticks and metal bells are also unmistakable signs. A shrine, on the other hand, is almost always entered through a rather simple shrine gate made of wood or stone. Now, let's talk about Shinto or Shintoism. Shintoism and Buddhism are the two main religions of Japan. A large portion of the Japanese population feels affiliated with both religions and sometimes switches between them depending on the occasion. The connection to the aforementioned structures is this: Shinto ritual sites are shrines, and Buddhist temples are the ritual sites of Buddhism.
Day 4: From Tokyo, we took a day trip to Nikko . Here, we could have visited the Toshogu Shrine , the mausoleum of Ieyasu Tokugawa , the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate and one of the most famous figures in Japanese history. Elaborate wood carvings adorn the shrine. The three monkeys , who hear no evil, speak no evil, and see no evil, are one of the most recognizable motifs. A long queue at the ticket office made a visit impossible due to our schedule. So, we first visited the Shinkyo Bridge , considered one of the three most beautiful bridges in Japan, and hiked along the Kanmangafuchi Gorge. Seventy stone statues wearing red hats and scarves line the path. At the end of the gorge, we wanted to take the bus to Kegon Falls , but relying on Google Maps' bus schedule, we were let down. We ended up on the wrong bus back to Nikko and then comfortably made our way back to the train. For the trip to Nikko, be sure to create a very detailed daily plan in order to experience all the sights.
Day 5: Today we leave Tokyo and travel to Hakone , a region primarily known for its hot springs and vast national park. During your arrival, it's worth stopping at the tourist information center when changing trains in Odawara. There you'll find excellent information about the park and can purchase the Hakone Free Pass (worth it for stays of two days or more). This pass allows you to use the train, cable car, boat, and bus without needing any additional tickets. Equipped with everything you need, we continue to our hotel in Gora . The journey to Gora on the Hakone Tozan Line , a mountain railway , is fantastic and an experience in itself. Upon arrival in Gora, we transfer to another mountain railway, and a cable car takes us up to Owakudani . Shortly before reaching the mountain station, we enjoy a breathtaking view of Mount Fuji during the ride. Once at the top, the characteristic sulfurous smell of the volcano greets you. The eggs cooked in volcanic water are particularly famous here; they turn black and are said to prolong life. These things definitely look worse than they taste. There's a hiking trail around the crater area. You should check beforehand whether the trail is closed and, if necessary, book a tour online. Back at the hotel, we check into a Japanese-style room and enjoy our first onsen . A bath in a hot spring is incredibly relaxing. For dinner, we experience typical Japanese kaiseki cuisine for the first time, perfectly matching the hotel's style... a little bit of everything, arranged perfectly and precisely, very diverse, and nothing was overdone. It was one of the most magnificent dinners we've ever had the pleasure of enjoying.
Day 6: Another highlight of the region is Lake Ashi , which is normally accessible by cable car via Owakudani (this wasn't possible for us due to repairs). So, after a very steep descent to the bus stop in town, we took a bus to Togendai on the lake. From there, we hiked halfway around the lake to Motohakone-ko and, of course, walked to the famous photo spot . With perfect weather, we were able to take the iconic photo with Hakone Shrine, Mount Fuji, and the pirate ship . From there, we took a boat back to Togendai and then a bus back to the hotel. The food at the hotel was, once again, typically Japanese with many small and beautifully presented courses.
Day 7: Departing from Gora should definitely be planned using the funicular railway. A Google search might suggest a bus trip from Gora to Odawara, but that's quite risky, as the bus station is only accessible via a very steep path, and carrying luggage would be even more challenging. So, get up early and head to the funicular, which is pleasantly empty at this early hour. As mentioned above, the ride is truly beautiful. Today's destination is Matsumoto with its famous castle (a National Treasure of Japan) , one of the few original, preserved feudal castles in Japan. When we arrive, it's snowing heavily, and a visit or even taking nice photos is out of the question. We're quite disappointed. The weather forecast predicts sunshine for the next day, but we also have to catch our train. Well, to salvage the situation, we set our alarm early to try and get a nice photo after all.
Day 8: When I stepped out of the hotel early in the morning, I was almost knocked off my feet by the fact that the sidewalks were completely icy and snowy. After just a few meters, I wanted to turn back, since any broken limbs would obviously ruin my vacation, and to top it off, there were thick clouds in the sky. But what wouldn't one do for a wonderful experience? So I staggered on through the streets to the castle, relieved to have arrived safely. And indeed, the atmosphere in the morning light was beautiful. Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed that the light had suddenly changed, and then it happened. A winter dream straight out of a fairy tale came true... the sun came out, and the castle and its surroundings were nestled in a bright, white winter landscape. It was simply beautiful and a real treat to be there. Unfortunately, it was far too short. I quickly "slid" back to the hotel, had a quick breakfast, and then continued on to Kanazawa . We first visited the beautiful Kanazawa Castle and Kenroku-en , one of the three gardens in Japan considered to be perfect landscape gardens. For the first time, we see tree branches being tied down to prevent them from breaking under the weight of the snow. This clearly demonstrates the importance of garden design. A stroll through the Nagamachi Samurai District and a visit to the meticulously restored samurai residence of the Nomura family , once an influential samurai family, are essential. A wander through the alleys of the Higashi Chaya District is also a must.
Now back to the knowledge corner. What exactly are samurai, ninjas, and shoguns? First of all, a shogun is not a samurai. A shogun was at the head of the Japanese military or military government (shogunate). The samurai, on the other hand, were a caste of elite soldiers and were at the top of society. The shoguns oversaw the deployment of the samurai. The power of the shoguns was therefore greater than that of the samurai, who were "mere soldiers." And ninjas were simply mercenaries belonging to the lower classes of society. Furthermore, unlike samurai, ninjas operated in secret (which is also the meaning of the word "ninja").
Day 9: Today we're taking a day trip to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go . Please note that the long-distance bus trip should be booked in advance and departs from the bus stations at the train station. Important! The train station has bus bays at both exits (west and east), and the bus to Shirakawa-go departs from the west side . We had to run for the bus because we were standing on the wrong side, as a sign at bus bay 4 made it quite clear that this was where the bus actually departs. So, if in doubt, ask at the information desk... that saved us! The region, nestled in the mountains, is characterized by fantastic scenery and picturesque little farmhouses (Gassho-zukuri), some of which are over 250 years old and famous for their architectural style. This style has evolved over many generations and is designed to withstand the heavy snowfall in the region during winter. Many of the houses are now small museums and can be visited. If you're not interested in museums, you should definitely eat at one of the traditional houses. We didn't find the viewing platform above the city as great as advertised.
Day 10: Today we continue our journey to Kyoto , one of Japan's most historically and culturally significant cities. With around 1.5 million inhabitants, Kyoto is a major city, and upon arrival at the train station , you should definitely head to the main exit . The concourse is worth seeing. A quick interim observation... despite the city's size, the main train station is impressively clean. In general, Japan is incredibly clean; everything is very orderly, nothing is marred by graffiti, and everyone is polite and reserved. This needed to be emphasized. Our first stop is the Imperial Palace . This is a recommended tour to help you settle in. Afterward, we'll visit the Heian Shrine with its beautiful garden and an incredibly photogenic wooden bridge —a must-see. On the way to Maruyama Park , we'll take a quick picture of Chion-in Temple . Unfortunately, the cherry trees in the park aren't in bloom yet, so we'll quickly continue on to one of Japan's largest shrines, Yasaka Shrine . We ended the day in the rather crowded and beautiful old town of Higashiyama , which enchants visitors with its traditional houses and small shops. Of course, a visit to Kiyomizu-dera Temple was a must, offering a magnificent view over the city. The temple is one of the top tourist attractions in Japan and, accordingly, very busy. For dinner, we searched online for a noodle restaurant, which turned out to be a "classic Japanese soup kitchen." A unique experience. By the way, public transportation in the city can once again be paid for with a Suica card.
Day 11: Today we'll be crisscrossing Kyoto, visiting various highlights. We'll begin with a visit to Nijo Castle , which served as the residence of the Shogun from 1601 onwards. Afterwards, we'll take the train to Arashiyama , home to the famous bamboo forest . Be sure to visit the Tenryu-ji Temple , a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Incidentally, there's a hut just before the exit where you can rest and take fantastic photos of the bamboo forest . Our next stop is Kinkaku-ji . This three-story Zen Buddhist temple houses several important Buddhist relics, and its exterior is covered in gold. Each floor of the temple showcases a different architectural style. Finally, we'll visit Gingaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion) and, along the Philosopher's Path , be sure to make a detour to Zenrin-ji Temple . At the southern end of the path, a short stop at Nanzen-ji is worthwhile. In a tiny sushi bar, we rest our legs after a long day and are then glad to be back at the hotel.
Day 12: Kyoto is perfect for a day trip to Nara . We've already seen quite a few temples, but Todaiji Temple is definitely worth the visit! It's the largest wooden building in the world. Inside, you'll find the largest and heaviest bronze Buddha statue , weighing 500 tons. The temple grounds also feature a beautiful garden with the famous tame deer . You feed the animals rice crackers, which you can buy at various points. As soon as someone gets their hands on the coveted crackers, they'll be surrounded by the deer, and after a customary Japanese bow (in this case, to the deer), you can start feeding them. It's really fun. On the way back to the train station, stop at the famous Nakatanidou Mochi Shop . At certain times, you can watch mochi (rice cakes) being made in the traditional way. The dough is pounded incredibly fast with wooden mallets, and Nara is home to some of the fastest rice beaters in the country. We didn't manage that, but it's supposed to be a real spectacle!
Day 13: Another day in Kyoto dawns. First, we stroll through the geisha district in Gion . Out of consideration for the locals, we do this early, as Kyoto plans to close this area from April 2024 onwards due to the antisocial behavior of tourists (unauthorized photography, vandalism, littering). It's truly sad that disrespectful Instagrammers are making it impossible to visit historical sites. Afterwards, we wander in the daylight to Yakasa Shrine and then back through the old town of Higashiyama up to Kiyomizu-dera Temple . We're lucky enough to be able to photograph a bridal couple along the way. On our way to the last major highlight in Kyoto, we make a photo stop at Reigen-in Temple . There, we find six adorable Buddha statues. And then we arrive at Fushimi Inari Taisha , better known as the Shrine of 1,000 Red Gates . It's worth noting that this shrine is the most visited Shinto shrine in Japan, so here's a tip: the higher you climb Mount Inari (where the red gates are scattered throughout), the fewer tourists you'll encounter. We started our ascent from the north, beginning at Kyoto Trail Station 4, Higashiyama. It only gets a bit busier at Kojingamine . From there, it's still a few more meters of elevation gain to Ichinomine . Now, we followed the classic paths towards the main shrine, encountering many people and numerous red gates, which, by the way, are donations from companies and individuals. A striking feature here is the abundance of fox statues (messengers of the deity Inari), most of which wear red bibs around their necks and hold the so-called Dharma Key or a wishing jewel in their mouths. This is characteristic of all Inari shrines (dedicated to the fox god and rice god).
Day 14: Today we continue on to Hiroshima . Hiroshima Castle and the wonderful Shukkeien Garden are well worth seeing. At the castle, we noticed a unique aspect of the defense strategy employed at the time, one that is probably unparalleled worldwide. The idea behind the defense was to drown the attackers! Yes, you read that right. They took advantage of the city's location by building two dams around the castle. In the event of an attack, the outer dam would have been breached, and the resulting torrent of water would have simply swept the enemy away. Unfortunately, the city in southern Japan gained tragic notoriety through the dropping of the atomic bomb on August 6, 1945. Today, it is and hopefully will remain a symbol of peace. We experience remembrance, commemoration, and hope in the large Peace Memorial Park in the city center. Here, important monuments and memorials for peace can be found and should not be missed on any visit to Hiroshima. The Peace Memorial Museum is an important place to learn about the city's history. We wouldn't recommend the museum for children, as some of the images are quite graphic. After leaving the museum, we needed some time to process what we had seen.
Day 15: Today we're taking another day trip that isn't offered by many tour operators. The Kintaikyō Bridge in Iwakuni is Japan's most beautiful wooden bridge and attracts many domestic tourists to the southernmost prefecture of Japan's main island every year. This morning, we have to wait out the rain in a café. The café is right on the riverbank, and we have a fantastic view of the five majestic wooden arches on stone foundations spanning the Nishikigawa River . After the rain stops, we cross the bridge to the other side of the river, where we stroll through Kikkō Park with its cherry and maple trees, several shrines, museums, and former samurai residences. A climb to Iwakunui Castle is absolutely worthwhile. A cable car usually runs up Shiroyama, where Iwakuni Castle stands... but only in good weather. If you plan to return via the hiking trails signposted below the castle, sure-footedness is important (it is very steep).
Day 16: Few postcard images from Japan are more famous than the torii gate on Miyajima Island . At high tide, the gate and the Itsukushima Shrine complex, built on stilts, appear to float on the water, while at low tide, you can walk underneath the wooden structure. Hiking trails and a cable car lead up Mount Misen, offering a fantastic panoramic view of the island. A word of warning about the hike: the climb is quite strenuous, as there are many stairs to ascend. The route is certainly scenic, however, as it leads through the forest along beautiful gorges. Finally, we finally manage to eat freshly grilled oysters, the island's specialty, for the first time, and later try the raw version as well. Well, to each their own. Miyajima can be reached by several means. A fast ferry departs regularly from near Peace Park, taking 45 minutes to reach the island. Alternatively, you can take the shuttle ferry or the train.
Day 17: Today you continue your journey to Osaka , the final stop on our trip. On the way, we'll stop in Himeji to visit one of the country's cultural highlights: Himeji Castle . A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it's one of the most beautiful and famous castles in the country and a fantastic photo opportunity . Its picturesque gardens make it a particularly popular destination during cherry blossom season. You can also explore the castle's interior. By the way, you can easily store your luggage in one of the many lockers at Himeji Station. Later, once you arrive in Osaka, the Dotonbori area is worth a visit in the evening. It's known for its neon signs, canals, and delicious street food. Osaka is generally considered a gourmet mecca.
Day 18: The weather isn't cooperating today, so we're relaxing at the hotel for a while. In the afternoon, we're heading to Umeda Station and then on to the Umeda Sky Building . The building lives up to its name, as the observation deck on the roof offers a truly fantastic, albeit cloudy, view of the city. There's also a Sky Cafe where you can enjoy the beautiful view as well.
Day 19: The weather still isn't great. Nevertheless, we want to visit Osaka Castle , one of Japan's most famous castles and a fantastic photo opportunity . The castle is surrounded by a large park, and the many paths are perfect for a stroll. Finally, we head to the Shinsaibashi shopping district with its seemingly endless covered shopping arcade (a good bad-weather activity, but bad for the credit card), which then ends in Dotonbori . We buy our last souvenirs and have to head to the airport. Goodbye Japan, a truly impressive and wonderful country in every way.