India - Rajasthan
Day 1: Why did it take three attempts to go to India? In 2017, everything was booked and we were really looking forward to it. However, there was a sledding accident in the Harz Mountains, resulting in a broken ankle, so the trip had to be canceled. On our second attempt, Covid-19 thwarted our plans, and now it's finally happening on the third try. We land in India and start our program in Delhi, exploring both Old and New Delhi . Definitely visit the Red Fort (closed on Mondays), the Friday Mosque , and Humayun's Tomb . If possible and not included in the itinerary, a visit to the snow-white Sikh temple Gurudwara Shri Bangla Sahib is highly recommended. It's a truly impressive and thought-provoking experience.
For Sikhs, there is a spiritual and social hub: the Gurdwara. Here, they sing and pray together, and there is free medical care and free food for tens of thousands of visitors. The Sikh temple in Delhi thus offers the opportunity to enter one of the most important places of the Sikh religion and share its traditions and customs. Sikhism is a religion that originated in India. Its founder was Guru Narak (1469-1538), a Hindu from Nankana Tahib in present-day Pakistan. The teachings of the founding Guru and his first nine successors (known as the Ten Sikh Gurus) are written in the holy book Guru Granth Sahib, which is unique in that, unlike the holy books of other major religions, it was written by the founders of the religion themselves. People who follow Sikhism should always carry five items with them: Kara: a metal bracelet. Kesh: long, uncut hair. Khanga: a small wooden comb used to gather their hair. Kashera: cotton underwear. Kirpan: a small dagger. Originally, it was a large sword. It symbolizes power and spiritual freedom, self-respect, and the constant struggle for good and morality over injustice. Its rules state that it should never be used for attack, but only for self-defense or to protect others.
Day 2: Now the question arises whether the top highlight in Rajasthan should be at the beginning or the end of the trip. We opted for a clockwise itinerary and traveled from Delhi to Agra . To put it simply, the Taj Mahal ( closed on Fridays ) is undoubtedly a highlight, but there are many other magnificent sights to see. So don't think, "Now that you've seen the Taj Mahal, what else is there?" There's still plenty more to discover. On the way to Agra, be sure to make a stop in Sikandra to see the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Akbar . The fort , built entirely of red sandstone, is also well worth seeing. In Agra, the Taj Mahal is clearly the indescribable highlight . It's simply impossible to put into words when you walk through the main gate and see the Taj Mahal for the first time. The "Tomb of Love," entirely clad in white marble in 1630, still testifies to the deep bond between the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal and is simply breathtakingly beautiful ( photo tip : the main entrance and the main axis of the Taj Mahal face south, so around 1-2 pm is the best time for photos). By the way, it's best to book tickets online and eat beforehand, as food is not allowed through the entrance control .
The Taj Mahal is probably the most photographed building in the world. Everyone knows the impressive facts about this magnificent mausoleum, a symbol of deep and eternal love, with its 12 years of construction involving over 20,000 craftsmen and 1,000 elephants, 28 different and countless precious stones used in its construction, and its 58-meter height resting on a gigantic foundation, etc. But there is at least one rather intriguing and lesser-known story. The grieving Mughal emperor is said to have planned a mirror image of the gleaming white mausoleum for himself, made of black marble. The already enormous cost of his wife's tomb supposedly led to his deposition by one of his own sons, according to rumor. The fact is, the Mughal emperor was ultimately buried next to his wife in the central hall of the white Taj Mahal. This tomb is the only asymmetry in the otherwise perfectly symmetrical building. Before Shah Jahan was laid to rest, the deposed ruler gazed upon his wife's memorial from prison for eight years. After one of the couple's sons seized power, Shah Jahan lived under heavy guard in the Red Fort until his death, in a room overlooking the Taj Mahal. And finally, the Taj Mahal isn't made of marble; it's a brick building clad in marble.
Day 3: The journey continues from Agra to Jaipur . A truly impressive experience is seeing the magnificent stepwell Chand Baori (photo on main page) in the village of Abhaneri. In the afternoon, Jaipur, the capital of the state of Rajasthan, is reached. Jaipur is one of the most colorful cities in India; the reddish paint on the city walls and facades gave it the nickname "Rose City."
Day 4: In Jaipur , a trip to Amber Fort with a visit to the palace complex is worthwhile. Here, the blend of Hindu and Muslim influences on the culture and way of life is clearly evident. A must-see in Jaipur is the impressive facade of the Palace of Winds ( photo tip : the famous photo of the facade (see main page) is only possible from the outside and works best in the morning, as the facade faces east). Today I noticed that I was having health problems. We later learned that the local agency apparently suspected we wouldn't be able to continue the trip. So I must have looked pretty bad. And it got even worse...
Day 5: From Jaipur, the journey takes us to Kota, now a modern city and thriving industrial center in the heart of the former Bundi Empire. Kota has preserved numerous artifacts of rich art from its past, which can be admired extensively in the City Palace . Within the palace walls is a museum housing, among other things, weapons, robes, and large-scale murals that previously belonged to the ruler's private collection. Unfortunately, I then have to cut my sightseeing short, as my problems are more serious than I thought. I've lost so much fluid due to gastrointestinal issues that I need to go to the hospital. Since there are only a few facilities in Kota that can administer IV fluids, I was quickly taken to the maternity ward. I was given electrolytes and injections to help me recover, and I would like to thank Ratna Nursing Home Pvt. Ltd. and the team at the Brijraj Palace Hotel again for their assistance. The hotel staff even prepared special bland food for me.
Day 6: From Kota, a trip to Bundi, an idyllic small town in the Aravalli Mountains, is very interesting, including a visit to the picturesque Chattar Mahal , the palace of the Hara kings. The Chitra Shala gallery contains beautiful frescoes from the 17th and 18th centuries, reflecting the cultural and religious life of that time in the Bundi style. Since I'm still in bed today and my better half doesn't want to leave me alone, we can unfortunately only look at pictures and listen to some information from our guide.
Day 7: Still somewhat weakened, we travel from Kota via Chittorgarh to Udaipur. On the way from Kota to the oasis city of Udaipur, a visit to the famous Chittorgarh fort is a must. The ritual suicide (Jauhar) of the Rajputs during multiple sieges by Islamic armies became a legend of resistance here.
Chittorgarh has a terrible history of blood and fire. It was conquered three times by Muslim armies: in 1303 by Alaud-Din Khalji, who coveted the fabulously beautiful Padmini, wife of Bhim Singh. The first attack was repelled. But Alaud-Din returned, and when the fall of the fortress seemed inevitable, all the women gathered with Padmini and threw themselves into the flames. The men donned orange wedding attire over their tunics and charged the conquerors, seeking death. After ten years, the Muslim occupation was driven out again. In 1535, Bahadur Shah appeared before the fortress. Once more, the women immolated themselves—tradition says 13,000—and once more the gates were opened for warriors in saffron robes; over 32,000 are said to have perished. In 1567, when Akbar stormed the walls of Chittor, the burning death of the women and the death-defying sortie of the men were repeated for the third time.
Day 8: Udaipur, the city on Lake Pichola, has incredible charm and is truly beautiful. It's considered the most romantic place in all of India and is rightly nicknamed the "Venice of the East." A day trip to the City Palace ( visit early for photos ) and the Sahelion-Ki-Bari women's garden is a must , and of course, a boat trip on Lake Pichola is essential for the obligatory photo of the Lake Palace Hotel ... James Bond would approve. The afternoon also offers the best light for photos of the City Palace from the water .
Day 9 : From Udaipur via Ranakpur to Kumbhalgarh. Today's drive to Kumbhalgarh includes a sightseeing stop in Ranakpur. The Jain temple, built of white marble and resting on 1,444 pillars, is an aesthetic highlight of the trip. Important to note: drinks are prohibited inside the temple and long clothing is required . Afterwards, the journey continues to Kumbhalgarh Fort , considered one of the most important fortresses of the former Mewar Empire ( photo tip : a few hundred meters before the parking lot, there's a viewpoint (see Google) where you can get the best photos in the afternoon). Incidentally, with a circumference of 36 kilometers, the fortress wall is the second longest in the world after the Great Wall of China.
Kumbhalgarh Fort is the second largest fortress in Rajasthan after Chittogarh and is protected by the second longest wall in the world. The complex boasts a wall approximately 36 kilometers long, averaging 12 meters in height and 8 meters in thickness, with a total of 7 gates, some of which are equipped with thick iron spikes to defend against elephant attacks. Within these walls are further fortifications, as well as palaces, temples, fields, water sources, farms, stables, secret passages... all completely isolated from the outside world, enabling them to withstand a long siege. Kumbhalgarh was reportedly never captured!
Day 10: From Kumbhalgarh to Luni. After a long but interesting drive from Kumbhalgarh through the Thar Desert , you will reach Luni in the evening. An overnight stay at Fort Chanwa, a 19th-century palace complex built of red sandstone, is a truly memorable experience. The owner, Maharaja Alip Singhji, had it converted into a hotel. Here we also had the pleasure of meeting a wonderful employee with whom we remain friends to this day.
Day 11: Luni: Excursion to Jodhpur to visit Mehrangarh Fort , which sits atop a 125-meter-high hill overlooking the city. Also worth seeing are Jaswant Thada and the white marble Chattri of Jaswant Singh II. A stroll through the colorful vegetable market offers opportunities to meet people from rural India. And of course, try the best lassi in the world (the shop is near the clock tower).
Day 12: From Luni via Osian to Jaisalmer . On today's leg to Jaisalmer, stop in Osian. The 26 Hindu and Jain temples (8th-17th centuries) and the Sachiya Mata Temple (Jain temple) , adorned with wonderful stonework, are impressive. In the evening, you will reach Jaisalmer, the fairytale-like old caravan city in the Thar Desert.
Day 13: The city of Jaisalmer became wealthy and important in the 12th century due to its role as a stopover for trade caravans. The very well-preserved old town with its fort and the havelis (manor houses) of the former wealthy merchants, adorned with masterful stonework, is truly beautiful. In the afternoon, a trip to the Sam sand dunes in the desert is worthwhile. Event tip: The colorful Desert Festival takes place in Jaisalmer . During this time, you can experience and participate in a diverse folkloric program.
Day 14: From Jaisalmer to Bikaner. Today's leg of this tour involves a long drive. A trip to Bikaner is necessary if you want to visit the Rat Temple. Opinions are divided on this "highlight." We deliberately chose a tour that included the Rat Temple in its itinerary.
Day 15: Bikaner: Excursion to Deshnoke to visit the Karni Devi "Rat Temple." The small rats living in the temple are revered as sacred. It is said that spotting one of the few white rats brings particular luck... well, we'll see. And as mentioned, everyone should form their own opinion of this attraction, so we'll refrain from offering our own. It's definitely a good idea to wear old socks that you can throw away after your visit . Also recommended in Bikaner is a visit to the Junagarh Fort (16th century) with its palace section inside and the museum, which houses artifacts from the Harappan period, sculptures from the Gupta period, and miniatures from the Bikaner school.
Day 16: From Bikaner to Mandawa. The journey continues through the Shekhavati region, a former vassal state of the Maharaja of Jaipur and Amber, to Mandawa. The palaces and private houses with their vibrant frescoes bear witness to the wealth of the merchants of that era. Simply wander through the town. An overnight stay in a haveli (private mansion) is highly recommended.
Day 17: After bidding farewell to the rugged beauty and rich culture of Rajasthan, you will travel back to Delhi today. Our last hours in India have arrived, and we are completely overwhelmed by the sheer number of sights. As I say goodbye, I am also incredibly relieved to have recovered well from my health problems.