Guatemala - Honduras
Day 1: Even during our tour of the Yucatán Peninsula , we were captivated by the ancient Mayan civilization. The diversity of Mayan culture and the imposing Mayan sites were incredibly impressive. Therefore, this time we want to experience more of this in Guatemala . So we're flying to Guatemala City and, after arriving, continuing by bus to colonial Antigua , the former capital of Central America. By the way, we've put together a little background information about the Incas, Mayans, and Aztecs in a little "knowledge corner ."
Day 2: Today we explore Antigua . The beautiful cityscape and the magnificent location at the foot of the Agua and Fuego volcanoes are what make this town so appealing. Here's a sneak peek. We've extended our itinerary to include a climb up the Arcatenango volcano, which is said to offer a fantastic view of Fuego. But first, we'll visit a coffee plantation and learn all about the country's most important export. Afterward, we'll stroll through Antigua's cobblestone streets, exploring old churches, monasteries, and markets. We'll also make a detour to the Jade Museum, which houses, among other things, a replica of Pakal's death mask.
Day 3: We head to Chichicastenang . At what is probably the most famous market in Central America, we experience a sea of vibrant colors, smells, and impressions. At the colorful cemetery and the ceremonial altar of Pascual Abaj, we gain insight into the religion and spirit world of the local Mayan descendants. We continue on to Lake Atitlán , where we enjoy the unique evening atmosphere. At dinner, we stumble upon a fun pub quiz and realize that we are particularly lacking in knowledge of various characters from TV series. Who knows the name of the dog from The Simpsons?
Day 4: Today we visit several important communities north of Lake Atitlán, where the traditional way of life of the Quiché Maya can still be experienced. In Solola, we'll visit the less touristy weekly market ( best visited on Friday morning ). Afterwards, we drive, partly along the Pan-American Highway, to San Cristóbal Totonicapán, home to a very impressive church . While the exterior isn't particularly inviting, the interior is quite remarkable. Next, we travel to San Andrés Xecul , where a very special church awaits. Although it's usually closed, its facade is quite unusual for a church. Finally, we stop in Quetzaltenango , where the main square is well worth a visit.
Day 5: We take a boat across the lake to Santiago de Atitlán , where we hike past countless souvenir stalls up to the Catholic church . We also visit a cooperative that supports women and families. While their children are cared for at home, they can make clothing, which the cooperative then buys and resells. It's a wonderful concept that enables women to pursue careers within their families. Afterward, we have a somewhat unusual encounter with the local saint, Maximon , one of the most enigmatic and controversial folk saints in the Guatemalan highlands. After a side trip to San Juan La Laguna , we leave the highlands and return to Guatemala City .
Day 6: In Guatemala's capital, we start the day with a surprise: a visit to Berliner Platz , home to the iconic Berlin Bear and sections of the Berlin Wall . During a brief city tour, we happen upon an impressive procession. We then visit the Yuritta Church with its striking architecture, the cathedral , and the shimmering green Palace of Culture . Afterward, we travel to the highland province of Alta Verapaz and the town of Cobán . The cloud forests at the transition between the highlands and the tropical rainforest provide excellent living conditions for the national bird, the resplendent quetzal . Unfortunately, we don't spot the bird during a beautiful hike in the Biotopo del Quetzal nature reserve.
Day 7: Coban is famous for its orchids. In an orchid garden, we can admire up to 600 different varieties, including the world's smallest orchid, whose bloom is only visible with a magnifying glass. Afterwards, we'll visit a cooperative where we'll have the opportunity to learn more about the production and processing of coffee, which thrives in the Guatemalan soil. Apparently, they also produce a special coffee here, which costs around $250 per pound and is sold exclusively to connoisseurs in Japan. Incidentally, freshly harvested coffee beans are moist and taste sweet. To conclude the day, we'll make a quick visit to Casa Aurora and the Santa Cruz market , where we need to restock our supplies, as we have a very long drive ahead of us tomorrow.
Day 8: We set off quite early on the long journey directly to El Ceibal . In the Guatemalan rainforest, we embark on a journey of discovery in the ruined Mayan city . The Mayan city was discovered by chance by loggers. To this day, only a fraction has been excavated. The Mayan stelae and the temple pyramid are particularly remarkable. We walk through the overgrown city down to the river and transfer to a boat that takes us to Sayaxche . Once again, our bus driver is called upon to drive us through the rapidly approaching darkness to our hotel near Flores .
Day 9: Today we travel through the rainforest of the Petén province to Yaxha . This Mayan city , which flourished between 700 and 900 AD, is a true hidden gem. The journey there by boat across Lake Yaxha is already beautiful. From the dock, we climb a few steps to reach the site. At first glance, it seems rather unassuming, but Yaxha was one of the most important cities of the Classic Mayan period, boasting correspondingly large structures that reveal themselves after a short hike. Among the most important complexes are the Royal Palace , the North Acropolis , the Astronomical Complex , two ball courts , the East Acropolis , the Painters' Complex , and the Twin Pyramids . The highlight, of course, is that we can climb the pyramids of the North Acropolis , guaranteeing fantastic photo opportunities . We return by boat to the bus and continue on to Flores , where we spend the evening. With its many colorful houses, Flores is a very peaceful place, even if not all the beautiful corners can be explored because of the flooded main street.
Day 10: Tikal , the "place where the spirit voices sound," is truly an extraordinary experience. In our opinion, Tikal is even more impressive than Chichen Itza, especially since Tikal is larger and several impressive pyramids and temples stand around the main plaza against the backdrop of the rainforest. And just to give you an idea... an estimated 10,000 structures remain unexcavated. At the aforementioned Great Plaza in Tikal , Temples I and II are among the tallest stepped temples in Mesoamerica. The towering North and Central Acropolises, as well as the ball court, are also located there. Because of this imposing complex, the plaza served as the embodiment of the Mayan worldview, a kind of cosmic space. You can somehow feel this significance when you stand in the plaza. The sheer size and beauty, as well as the atmosphere, leave a profound impression that is difficult to put into words. Tikal is one of those places that you should probably visit at least once in your life. The climb to Temple IV is also highly recommended, as it offers a wonderful view towards the Great Square and over the jungle.
Day 11: After the "cultural program" of the last few days, we head towards the Caribbean coast . At the Rio Dulce , we change vehicles, as the bus isn't a practical way to reach our hotel in Livingstone. So, we transfer from the bus to a boat. Before heading to the hotel, we visit Castillo San Felipe , a magnificent fort built by the Spanish that secured access to the large Lake Izabal . Then it's time to open the throttle... with 300 hp outboard motors, we cruise through the Rio Dulce canyon to Livingstone on the Caribbean coast. Along the way, we can observe numerous water birds. Incidentally, there's also a sanctuary here for the very rare manatees. After a thrilling ride, we reach our hotel in Livingstone and a completely different side of Guatemala: the Caribbean Garifuna culture . With the Caribbean atmosphere taking hold, we naturally end the evening with cocktails.
Day 12: Today is for rest. We're taking a boat trip to the nearby Playa Blanca . After the eventful days we've had, a day at the beach is just what we need to process everything and recharge. The return trip to Livingstone is quite choppy and wet due to the freshening wind, and a few of my fellow passengers are looking a bit pale considering the rough seas. We then have a rather unusual experience getting some cash... the ATM is incredibly difficult to use. My arms certainly don't fit through the mesh, and my wife's arms are almost too short to reach the money.
Day 13: This morning we return to the bus by boat. Our journey through Puerto Barrios and on to Honduras , passing through extensive banana plantations, leads to another highlight of the trip. The tallest Mayan stelae in Quiriguá impress with their ornamentation and tell the city's fascinating history. We cross the border and reach the town of Copán in Honduras. In the evening, a visit to the now well-known Carnitas Nia Lola bar is a must to sample their enormous meat skewers.
Day 14: Today promises to be an action-packed day. First, we'll visit the ancient Mayan city of Copán in Honduras. Copán, with its acropolis , ball court , and main plaza featuring well-preserved stelae, is one of the most beautiful sites of Mayan culture . Copán's main attraction is the impressive Hieroglyphic Stairway , 10 meters wide, over 60 steps high, and covered with 2,200 hieroglyphs, telling the fascinating story of the city. After the visit, we'll embark on a long drive back to Antigua in Guatemala. We'll conclude the tour with a farewell dinner with our fellow travelers. Through the travel agency, we've booked a few extra days , as we want to experience one more highlight... a volcano climb to an active volcano.
Day 15: We're using today to relax in Antigua and to get supplies for our upcoming two-day hike up the Arcatenango volcano. We'll sleep in, take a leisurely stroll around, and pick up some energy-rich food at the supermarket. Then it's time to relax by the pool and go to bed early.
Day 16: Today's the day... we're heading to Arcatenango to get a close-up view of the active Fuego volcano . Of course, we planned this trip extensively beforehand and also read the horrifying reports online. And let me tell you, they're all true... it's an incredibly tough hike! But let's start at the beginning. The hike begins in La Soledad, where several tour operators set off with many guests. After meeting our guides and getting our gear, we begin, and it's a brutal climb. For six to seven hours, we ascend almost continuously, climbing a steep 1,400 meters in just about six kilometers to an altitude of 3,000 to 4,000 meters above sea level. Even after our first break, just a few hundred meters in, we're already quite exhausted, especially my better half, who's struggling immensely. Until the next breaks, it's a constant battle between mind and body. The steepness is so extreme that we can only proceed in tiny, shuffling steps. Our heads kept telling us to turn back. The thin air and dust were taking their toll. After what felt like endless hours climbing, we finally reached base camp, completely exhausted. No one was up for any further optional hikes. So we settled into our cabins, rested, played chess, sat around the campfire, and enjoyed our evening meal. It was freezing cold. We ate some marshmallows around the campfire for a bit of comfort, and as darkness fell, we watched Fuego. Unfortunately, we only saw a faint glow of red lava. There were no eruptions, so we crawled into our sleeping bags early. The night was awful; it was cramped, cold, and, on top of that, it was strange sleeping in a cabin with strangers... we couldn't get a wink of sleep.
Day 17: The alarm rings at 4:00 a.m. The plan is to climb to the summit of Arcatenango to experience the sunrise and the neighboring volcano, Fuego . After a largely sleepless night, we drag ourselves out of the hut. We get ready for the summit attempt. There isn't really a toilet, so we head behind a tree with our headlamps. Since we slept in our clothes and hats, we don't have to put on much and are ready to go fairly quickly. However, after the first steep sections towards the summit, it quickly becomes clear... we won't reach the top. Catrin is completely exhausted; she can't even manage the smallest portions of food and drink. She seems disoriented and her face is as white as a sheet. I decide to return to base camp immediately. With a few granola bars in her stomach, I send Catrin to her sleeping bag, where, due to her exhaustion, she simply sleeps through the sunrise. I enjoy this magnificent morning atmosphere all by myself. After the rest of the group returned from the summit, we headed back down the same route after breakfast. On the steep descent, we repeatedly shook our heads, wondering how we could have possibly put ourselves through this hike. Exhausted, tired, and silent, we all sat on the bus back to the hotel. A quick shower, then straight to bed, and just some rest. It was a truly extreme experience in every sense, one that everyone should carefully consider beforehand before undertaking .
Days 18 and 19: At breakfast in the hotel, we had a fantastic view of Arcatenango and Fuego and realized we'd overexerted ourselves this time. We strolled leisurely into the beautiful old town of Antigua . Today, we savored the city's alleyways and sights even more, such as... Antigua also boasts a wonderful restaurant and bar scene . It's worth peeking into the doorways, as they often reveal lovely courtyards . Some establishments also have wonderful rooftop terraces . Around Easter, the city has a very special atmosphere with processions and beautifully decorated churches. After the last two days, we truly enjoyed this leisurely tour of Antigua. We spent the next and final full day of our trip relaxing by the pool . Then it was time to pick up some last-minute souvenirs. Our farewell dinner, of course, was back in Antigua's magnificent old town.
Day 20: Before being picked up for the airport, we reflect on our impressions of Guatemala and Honduras. Two historically fascinating countries with stunning natural beauty, if only it weren't for all the litter outside the towns. One last fun fact... long-haul flights to Europe can't depart directly from Guatemala City, but have to fly via San Salvador. The runway in Guatemala City (population 1.2 million) is simply too short for fully fueled and loaded aircraft.