Grand China tour and beach
Day 1: Why did we choose China for our first tour of Asia? It was certainly this particular curiosity about the Middle Kingdom with its unique culture and history. Moreover, China has an incredible number of facets: vast cities and architectural marvels, modern metropolises, simple rural life, and of course, the food and the special mentality of its people. So we were very excited to see what awaited us on this trip when we landed in Beijing . After a short break at the hotel to recover from our journey, our tour began with the Temple of Heaven . Here, the emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties prayed for prosperity and a good harvest. We, of course, tried our hand at it too and hoped our prayers were answered. In the evening, we strolled around the city for a while. We were surprised by the large, brightly lit facades, colorful advertisements, and the incredibly Western lifestyle. An unbelievable contrast between history and modernity here in Beijing.
Day 2: Near Beijing, at the foot of Mount Tianshou, a visit to the Ming Tombs is on the agenda. In this sprawling complex, most of the Ming emperors found their final resting place in a truly impressive setting. The Changling Tomb , where Emperor Zhu Di (known as Yongle) is buried, is particularly striking. Incidentally, Yongle was the builder of the Forbidden City, which was constructed with the help of approximately 1,000,000 slaves and 100,000 artisans. Equally imposing is the Dingling Tomb , the mausoleum of Emperor Zhu Yijun. It's well worth climbing up here for the fantastic view. From there, we return to the bus via the Avenue of Souls for lunch. After lunch, we were supposed to head to the Great Wall at Badaling . However, we were in Beijing during the National Day holiday, a time when many Chinese people are traditionally traveling. Our bus was stuck in a massive traffic jam along with the local tourists also heading to the Great Wall. We didn't want to turn back, as we were determined to see the wall, so patience was required. After a long period of stop-and-go traffic, we finally reached our destination in the late afternoon. When we got off the bus, our jaws dropped in amazement. The sheer scale of the wall is incomprehensible (according to the latest figures, its total length is 21,196 km!). Equally unbelievable is how impressively this structure winds its way along steep mountain ridges. As we shopped along the wall, we quickly realized the sheer dimensions of this structure and the feats accomplished in that era. We also accomplished a little something ourselves... fulfilling the many photo requests from the Chinese tourists wasn't easy. We were constantly approached to take a picture together for their family albums.
Day 3: Today we're off to the Forbidden City . Since our hotel is quite centrally located, we decide to leave the bus and walk. The closer we get to the site, the more it becomes clear that, on National Day, it apparently doesn't matter which mode of transport you choose. It's simply packed. We've never seen so many people in one place. Since we Europeans are considerably taller and broader than the Chinese, we force our way through, especially as the Chinese are quite inconsiderate. Rude jostling seems to be perfectly normal. After practically fighting our way to the entrance, a group of Chinese actually manages to squeeze into our queue, causing even our tour guide to lose his temper. But the grumbler doesn't seem to mind. I don't think the word "manners" exists in the Chinese dictionary. Anyway, we're in and overwhelmed by our first impressions of the Forbidden City (see Knowledge Corner). The largest palace in the world by area (approximately 10 times larger than Versailles) is a truly special experience. Afterwards, the excursion continues to Tiananmen Square , and after lunch, we visit the Summer Palace . Speaking of food: during lunch, we discover for the first time that the Chinese "eat everything." For example, with chicken, even the feet are eaten whole. For dinner, we have traditional Peking duck. Incidentally, Peking duck, due to its unique preparation method, is only served in specialized restaurants. Outside of Beijing, there are only three Peking duck restaurants licensed by the People's Republic of China (in Tokyo, New York, and Hamburg). On the way back, we manage a detour to the striking National Stadium ("Bird's Nest") , which was built for the Olympic Games.
In this section, we'll delve into some fascinating facts about the Forbidden City. As mentioned, the palace grounds cover an area of 720,000 square meters, making it the largest palace in the world. Within its walls are 890 palaces and countless pavilions, boasting a legendary 9,999 rooms and half a room. Only the Palace in the Sky was permitted 10,000 rooms. According to the latest research, there are an astonishing 8,886 palace rooms. Despite these dimensions, construction took only 14 years. Not a single nail was used in its construction (only mortise and tenon joints were employed). The city features 13,844 depictions of dragons. There wasn't a single toilet in the entire palace (bedpans were used exclusively). In winter, pipes heated the palace and even the beds. The bronze vats in the city served as water reservoirs for extinguishing fires. During the time of the empire, ordinary people were not allowed to enter the Imperial Palace. This is where the name "Forbidden City" comes from. And one last fun fact... the emperor could choose from about 40 prepared dishes for breakfast.
Day 4: In the morning, we fly to Xi'an . Upon arrival, we head straight to the Muslim market and the Great Mosque . The Xi'an Mosque is one of the oldest and most famous in the country. Remarkably, we initially search in vain for the traditional minaret, as a typical Chinese pavilion serves as its minaret, and it doesn't look anything like one. After the visit, we use our free time to explore the city a bit. Incidentally, we notice today that we're always feeling a bit hungry, which is apparently due to the eating habits in China. Here, you don't get your meal served individually; instead, the food is placed on large plates in the middle of large tables. Everyone helps themselves to what they want. In a tour group, being the polite people we are, we try not to overfill our plates, so we sometimes weren't completely full during the first few days. A side note: since everyone at the table is moving their food from the middle of the table to their own plate, the table looks accordingly messy. That's normal.
Day 5: Today brings a special highlight of our trip to China: the Terracotta Army . It's one of the world's largest tombs (the mausoleum of the first emperor), discovered by chance by farmers digging a well. The tomb is famous for its approximately 8,000 life-size terracotta soldiers. Each soldier has different facial features... incredible! This suggests that the emperor wanted his army to be not only vast in number but also lifelike after his death. Besides the soldiers, there are also terracotta figures of horses, chariots, acrobats, and officials. Presumably, the emperor wanted to lead the same "life" after death as he had during his lifetime. After a short visit to a market with all sorts of unusual items of traditional Chinese medicine, we'll see the magnificent Wild Goose Pagoda . In the evening, we'll head to the famous city wall of Xi'an . The wall is the largest and most complete city wall in China and is also entirely accessible to walk on. The illuminated towers on the wall are particularly beautiful at night. Definitely go for photos !
Day 6: We fly to Chongqing , the city on the Yangtze River. Few people know that Chongqing is the largest city in the world by area. The city limits are roughly the size of Austria. It has 32 million inhabitants, a number that is growing rapidly, so Chongqing is now probably also the world's largest city by population, having overtaken Tokyo (37 million). Due to the high population density, there are endless streets lined with high-rise buildings, some so densely packed that residents on the lower floors don't see any daylight, and train lines run directly through buildings. The drive from the airport to the city is, of course, accompanied by constant traffic jams. We're relieved to finally arrive in the old town, which doesn't fit in at all with the ultramodern cityscape. The lively old town district, "Ciqikou," is very beautiful, with its narrow alleyways and old traditional houses. Afterwards, we go to People's Square with its striking People's Hall , which is modeled after the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. In the evening, our Yangtze River cruise begins with embarkation. A quick note about the local cuisine, which is heavily influenced by the spicy—I'd even say incredibly spicy—Sichuan cuisine. It's nearly impossible to finish a meal; well, back home we discovered the scales showed a lower weight than before the trip... it was quite an experience.
Day 7: In the morning, we set off for Fengdu. We experience firsthand why Chongqing is also known as the "Fog Capital." It's quite overcast, almost mystical, which only heightens our anticipation for the "ghost city" of Fengdu. During the journey, we learn interesting facts about the Yangtze River . The Yangtze River, as it's officially called, is the longest river in Asia and the third longest in the world (after the Amazon and the Nile). The river gained particular fame because of the Three Gorges Dam. More on that later. After a while, we arrive in Fengdu and visit the " ghost city ." We travel by golf cart up to the temple hill, which features a remarkable number of ghostly statues. These sculptures offer a glimpse into Chinese folklore and the belief in life after death. Visitors to the city must pass three tests to avoid being too badly dealt a handful by fate in their next life. Anyone who makes it across alive will live to be 99. First, we have to cross the "Bridge of Helplessness," which spans an imaginary river of blood. If you cross the bridge in the middle, the first spirits are already lurking in the river, ready to drag the unsuspecting visitor to hell. Naturally, we don't want that. So, we have to choose between the two other bridge crossings. Taking the left crossing brings good luck and health. The right bridge represents wealth. Incidentally, older Europeans usually go left, while young Chinese tend to go right. The second test is the Gate of Hell. Here, we have to be careful which leg we use to pass through the gate, otherwise, we'll be in the "wrong body" in the next life. The third test is a balancing exercise in the Palace of the King of Hell. We have to stand on one leg for three seconds on a wobbly stone. Those who fail have something evil to hide. The King of Hell himself holds court daily. The bronze colossus, six meters high and three meters wide, sits enthroned in his temple. Fengdu is a great place to visit. Back on the ship, we watch the scenery drift by from the deck and are glad to see no crowds of people for once.
Day 8: Today marks the beginning of our passage through the Three Gorges of the Yangtze . We experience a magnificent sunrise as we enter the first of the gorges, the impressive Qutang Gorge . Since mist is a constant companion over the river, the sunrise has a mystical quality. Incidentally, this part of the gorge is considered the most beautiful section of the river. After breakfast, we discover that our toilet is broken. Unfortunately, the crew can't completely repair it, so we have to dispose of "certain needs" in an unpleasant manner... we won't elaborate further. The second day on board is beautiful again. We even get a lesson in authentic Chinese Mahjong, a fantastic game. We then cruise through the Wu Gorge (Witch's Gorge), where we dock and take a trip to the Three Little Gorges . This detour is highly recommended, as you can enjoy a wonderful boat trip there on small boats. Late in the evening, we reach the famous lock system of the Three Gorges Dam . We traversed approximately 190 meters via five sets of locks. Naturally, we got up especially for this and went up on deck with the camera... very impressive.
Day 9: In the morning, we visit the Three Gorges Dam . With an installed turbine capacity of 22.5 gigawatts (equivalent to the output of approximately eight nuclear power plants), it is the largest dam in the world. The dam wall is 185 meters high and 2,309 meters long. The reservoir stretches for over 600 kilometers. In addition to the aforementioned lock system, there is also the largest ship lift in the world. Such a gigantic project also has significant drawbacks for people and nature. The reservoir destroyed approximately 1,500 villages and 13 towns, as well as the habitats of plants and animals. The extent to which the primary goal of flood control has actually been achieved remains controversial. After the visit, we return to the ship and sail through the Xiling Gorge . Our fascinating cruise concludes with disembarkation in Yichang . On the way to our hotel in Wuhan, we visited the Jinzhou Museum , which has many exhibits on local history (Han Dynasty) and a rather gruesome-looking mummy. That evening, we slept in a hotel bed in Wuhan that, unlike the previous days, hadn't moved. That was a strange feeling at first.
Day 10: We probably won't forget this morning anytime soon. The plan was to take the high-speed train from Wuhan to Shanghai . The problem: our tour group was at the wrong station, as Wuhan actually has three main train stations. When our tour guide realized this, his face changed color quite dramatically. So, everyone went back to the bus, hoping we could still catch our train. Our bus driver then stopped briefly in front of the station, as the train was leaving in five minutes. We didn't even bother taking our luggage with us, as we all had to run. Since we also had two passengers with slight mobility issues who were lagging behind, we even held the train up briefly with the doors open. Once on board, our guide had tears in his eyes, as he couldn't imagine that we had waited for the last few passengers and him, and even delayed the train's departure. In any case, we can now travel to Shanghai in a relaxed manner. After arriving, we strolled along the impressive Bund waterfront promenade and the Nanjing Road shopping street. In the evening, the travel agency treated us to a fantastic night tour through Shanghai as compensation for the chaos of this morning. The bus driver transported our luggage after us.
Day 11: Today is dedicated to Shanghai. First, we'll explore the Old City with its wonderful Yu Garden and People's Square. Afterwards, we'll visit the sacred Jade Buddha Temple and the former French Concession Xin Tian Di , now a popular nightlife district. In the evening, we'll attend a spectacular acrobatic show . Speaking of nightlife, using the restroom in some restaurants can be a challenge , as there are no partitions or privacy screens. You can imagine what that means.
Day 12: Today we explore the area surrounding Shanghai . Driving through this predominantly rural part of China, we reach the water village of Tongli and visit the " Garden of Seclusion ." Strolling through the village, we hear about cormorant fishermen for the first time. Here, tamed cormorants are tethered to the boat with a long line. From the boat, the birds dive for fish and, after their dive, let the catch slide from their throats. At the edge of the village, we encounter what we consider a "typical" Chinese man, with gray hair, a white beard, and traditional clothing. Afterward, we travel to the " Garden City" of Suzhou , where we visit the " Garden of the Master of Nets " and a silk spinning mill . Back in Shanghai, the contrast between the modern metropolis and village life seems quite stark.
Day 13: It's off to the airport again. The distances in this vast country are immense. We land in Guilin and, after arrival, visit the Reed Flute Cave , one of the most beautiful caves in the area. In the evening, Guilin's city center is beautifully illuminated. A stroll along the lakeside promenades by the city's lakes and rivers is definitely worthwhile. You can then enjoy a nice beer in a small restaurant with a view of the lakes.
Day 14: A special highlight is on the agenda today: a panoramic boat trip on the Li River to Yangshuo. The Li River is a breathtaking natural wonder stretching for approximately 83 kilometers, where it winds its way through a picturesque, karst limestone mountain landscape. The peaks rising from the water, often shrouded in mist, create a captivating atmosphere. Truly a painting-like landscape and a must-see on any trip to China.
Day 15: Another flight awaits us, this time to Guangzhou , also known as Canton. On a city tour, we'll see the Chen Family Ancestral Temple and the Qingping Market . These markets, with their many different live animals, still seem a bit strange to us. A photo stop at the Canton Tower , at 600 meters the sixth tallest building in the world, is a must on the tour. Finally, we'll visit Shamian, the only place in China where Western merchants were allowed to build their warehouses and factories. Currently, Shamian is home to many consulates. With its historic buildings, small parks, and tree-lined avenues, it's a truly romantic spot in Guangzhou. In the afternoon , we'll head to the ferry terminal and take the catamaran to Hong Kong .
Day 16: Today we explore Hong Kong . First, we drive up Victoria Peak for a magnificent view over the city. During the drive through the city, we notice buildings with holes in their facades. These so-called " Dragon Gates " actually serve as passageways for dragons, ensuring they aren't blocked by building facades as they fly from the mountains to the sea. The motto is: Free passage for dragons. In Hong Kong, developers actually sacrifice incredibly expensive living space in buildings to avoid obstructing dragons' flights to the ocean... simply a wonderful Chinese belief. A boat trip through Hong Kong's harbor is particularly beautiful, and the fish market is especially impressive. We can choose our fish and eat it right there in the adjoining restaurant. We also meet "Hans," a giant grouper, there. In the evening, we admire the illuminated skyline and the laser show along Victoria Harbour . Our grand tour of China comes to an end here, but our vacation isn't over yet.
Day 17: We've decided to extend our stay with a beach holiday on Hainan Island . So it's back to the airport for our flight from Hong Kong to Hainan.
Days 18 to 21: On Hainan, the South Pacific island of China , we treated ourselves to a fantastic hotel. Unfortunately, a storm had washed away the beach, but the incredible pool area more than made up for it. In light of the situation, our room was upgraded to a suite. The days passed quickly on a magnificent island with a tropical atmosphere. We had time to process our experiences, enjoy the hotel, and had no idea what awaited us upon departure. We went to the airport to check in with the largest Chinese airline. At the counter, the woman took our passports, and after a long wait, she asked us for a "Country Code." I said Germany (GER), she looked at her screen for a long time, and after a while, asked again for the "Country Code." I repeated my answer, and again nothing happened except for her prolonged screen-watching. By now, there was a bit of a commotion in the queue. The woman then called her boss, and he, too, asked me for the damned "Country Code." He apparently couldn't make sense of the answer "Germany" or "GER" either; the two of them argued, glancing at the monitor every now and then. The commotion from the Chinese passengers behind us grew louder, and at that point, I was convinced I was going to be stuck there forever. From the wildly arguing and gesticulating crowd behind us, a young Chinese man came forward who spoke quite good English and somehow managed to solve the problem. After what felt like an eternity, we finally got our boarding passes. The plane was, of course, delayed because no passengers could board due to our traffic jam. It was madness... speaking of madness, the return flight was a disaster. The seats were incredibly cramped, forcing me to sit with my legs drawn up for over 10 hours, and the service was terrible because the flight attendants were busy reading magazines in the galley. That was certainly a unique way to end the vacation.