Egypt
Day 1: The fascination that Egypt exerts stems, of course, from its ancient culture. Various dynasties left behind unparalleled structures of this advanced civilization. Against this backdrop, it was almost inevitable that our first tour of Africa would take us to Egypt. So, we boarded the plane to Cairo with high expectations, but also with a queasy feeling about the security situation. In any case, we arrived safely at our hotel not far from the pyramids. In the evening, we wanted to explore the area around the hotel a bit, but we quickly abandoned this idea when hordes of Egyptians surrounded us, all wanting to trade, sell, or sling something around their necks.
Day 2: For Cairo, we booked a private tour guide through the travel agency, which turned out to be a real stroke of luck. Our guide was a PhD Egyptologist and had been the excavation director in Saqqara for many years, so he possessed an incredible wealth of knowledge. It was amazing. We met our guide at the hotel and set off directly for the Muhammad Ali Mosque, also known as the Alabaster Mosque . As part of the Citadel, the mosque is the main attraction there, and its silhouette is a defining feature of Cairo's cityscape. It also offers a magnificent view of the city . Afterwards, we went to the Ibn Tulun Mosque , the largest mosque in Cairo, covering 2.5 hectares. We then continued to the largest bazaar in Africa, Khan el-Khalili . While browsing there, we felt a bit uneasy, so we kept our visit rather short. The people seemed somewhat hostile. Unfortunately, our tour guide wasn't with us there. It probably would have been a bit easier then. To end the day, we went to the Egyptian Museum . What more can we say? It's overwhelming in every respect, and standing before the famous death mask of Tutankhamun is simply indescribable. Our guide offered us a drive through Cairo in the evening, off the beaten track. Some of what we saw during this tour was almost unbearable. So please don't venture out after dark outside the tourist areas without a guide.
In our knowledge section, we'll take a look at the funerary cult of the ancient Egyptians. The Egyptians believed in eternal life after death. In this context, preserving the body was crucial, as it was seen as the dwelling place of the immortal soul. This is precisely why the dead were elaborately mummified. The masks, including the aforementioned death mask of Tutankhamun, served to help the soul find its body again in the tomb. A truly remarkable concept. And a word about the sometimes incredibly opulent grave goods. Naturally, the deceased should lack nothing in the afterlife. They should be provided for.
Day 3: Today is dedicated to the pyramids . We begin at the world-famous Giza Plateau . The Pyramids of Giza are, incidentally, the only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World. As we walk up to the plateau, our jaws drop; it's simply unbelievable to stand before these enormous pyramids. And yes, standing there, it seems impossible that humans could have created something like this over 4,000 years ago. However, when we look more closely at the stones, it seems quite possible, as they aren't as massive as we had imagined. Then, when our Egyptologist shows us these incredibly precise joints between the multi-ton stones, where not even a pin could fit... could the Egyptians really have cut millions of stones with such precision? We walk around the pyramids on the plateau and simply enjoy the surroundings. Near the Great Pyramid of Giza (Cheops Pyramid) , we can admire the solar barque in the museum. Finally, we mustn't miss the famous Sphinx . Whether it actually guards the Giza Plateau is disputed. Next, we travel to Saqqara . Thanks to our guide, we have access to pyramids that are normally closed to the public. Crawling around inside a pyramid was amazing. The highlight in Saqqara is the Step Pyramid of Djoser, designed by Imhotep. In Memphis, the museum with the colossal statue of Ramses II is well worth a visit. The magnificent, enormous limestone statue of Pharaoh Ramses II is incredibly beautifully crafted. In the evening, we don't miss the light show at the Giza pyramids . Back at the hotel, we are completely overwhelmed by the day's experiences and can't fall asleep for a long time.
Day 4: Today we travel to Luxor . A Nile cruise , which runs from Luxor to Aswan, is a typical part of a tour of Egypt. After settling into our cabin, we will spend the rest of the day on board our Nile cruise ship.
Day 5: From the pier in Luxor , we begin our tour with the Karnak Temple , the largest temple complex in Egypt. The temple was dedicated to the gods Amun (creator and wind god), Mut (mother goddess), and Khonsu (moon god). Incidentally, the great hypostyle hall of the Karnak Temple could easily have accommodated Notre Dame Cathedral. Next, we visit the Luxor Temple . An almost 3-kilometer-long avenue of sphinxes connects the Karnak Temple with the Luxor Temple. At the entrance to the Luxor Temple, the two 15-meter-high colossal statues depicting Ramses II and a 25-meter-high obelisk are particularly striking (interesting fact: the counterpart to this obelisk was given to France and stands in Paris on the Place de la Concorde). At this time of year, the bazaars adjacent to each temple are a noticeable feature. After the tour, many vendors often aggressively try to sell their wares, which unfortunately often spoils the impression of the previous experience. Back on the ship, we leave Luxor for Edfu.
Since a few important gods have already been mentioned above, here's a short overview of the most important ones in the knowledge section (perfect for showing off on vacation). Anubis: God of the dead Atum: Creator of the world Bes: God of childbirth Chephren: Ra as a scarab Geb: God of the earth Hathor: Love and beauty Horus: Protector of Egypt Isis: Goddess of magic Nut: Goddess of the sky Osiris: Underworld Ptah: God of craftsmen Ra: Primordial god, sun god Sachmet: Destruction Seth: God of chaos Tefnut: Rain and water Thoth: God of wisdom
Day 6: In Edfu , we visit the remarkably well-preserved Temple of Horus . The temple complex is said to have taken 180 years to build and was only completed in 57 BC. Horus, by the way, is descended from the god of the dead, Osiris, and his sister Isis. At the entrance to the Temple of Horus stand two falcon statues, typical representations of the god Horus. The two large pylon towers also depict the falcon-headed king, facing Egyptian enemies with his sword. Overall, the temple is an impressive testament to Egyptian history. Back on the ship, we set sail for Aswan. The landscape glides by... magnificent. The situation at the docks, however, is less than magnificent. The ships are usually moored close together, and the engines run around the clock to supply electricity. Since our cabin is at the rear of the ship, our sleep is rather restless.
Day 7: Our sightseeing program begins this morning with the Aswan High Dam , the third largest reservoir in the world by volume (only Kariba and Bratsker are larger) and also among the top ten by surface area. The dam project gained particular fame for the relocation of the Abu Simbel temple, which was saved from being submerged. We then travel by boat to the Philae Temple , the temple of the goddess Isis, mother of Horus. This temple also had to be moved and now stands picturesquely on an island in the Nile. This temple complex is wonderfully preserved and definitely worth a visit. Afterwards, we head to the Feryal Gardens . A must-see; fantastic photos are guaranteed , and you have a magnificent view of the Nile, the islands, the harbor, and the surrounding landscape. The famous Agatha Christie Hotel is also located there. Aswan also boasts a beautiful church, the Coptic Orthodox Church of St. Michael the Archangel . To conclude our tour of Aswan, we will visit the El-Tabia Mosque, situated on a hill. Our ship will remain in Aswan.
Day 8: Today we have to get up very early. We've opted for the optional excursion to Abu Simbel . The journey from Aswan takes about six hours round trip. The alarm rings at 4:00 a.m., and with tired eyes, we board the bus for the drive through the Libyan Desert. Due to security concerns, our bus is escorted by the police. The temples of Abu Simbel are the most famous in all of Egypt after the Pyramids of Giza . Therefore, the early start and long journey are well worth it. The enormous rock-cut temples were built by the greatest of the pharaohs, Ramses II. They were intended to convey the power of the Egyptian rulers to everyone who saw them. The four statues at the entrance of the great temple are the largest surviving sculptures from the ancient pharaonic period. The larger temple, by the way, was so precisely aligned with the sun by the ancient architects that on February 22nd, the anniversary of Ramses II's accession to the throne, and on his birthday, October 22nd, the sunlight illuminates the space in such a way that a statue of Ramses and the gods shines brightly... incredible . Back in Aswan, we sailed a dhow to the Botanical Garden . From there, a small boat took us on a leisurely trip among the islands in the Nile . We caught a glimpse of the imposing Aga Khan tomb . We then saw some camels lying on the riverbank. After a bit of negotiation, we were allowed to ride them a short distance to the next village. Surprisingly, a family invited our tour group into their home for tea, so we ended the day enjoying it on the rooftop. Incidentally, I'm not sure I would invite a tour group into my apartment if the doorbell rang.
Day 9: Our ship arrived overnight in Kom Ombo . There, we visited the double temple . It's called a "double temple" because it's dedicated to the gods Sobek (the crocodile-headed god of water and creation) and Haroeris (a manifestation of the god Horus). Because of the separate worship of these gods, the temple has an unusual architectural design. It has two entrances, and all the gates, passageways, and rooms are duplicated... truly unique. Back on our Nile ship, we set sail and head back to Luxor.
Day 10: After breakfast, we first visited the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut , an incredibly imposing and somehow "different" complex. The unique temple architecture differs quite significantly from the classic temples with their pylon courtyard and adjoining hypostyle hall. Here, the classic pylons were replaced by colonnades, and the adjoining courtyards were designed as terraces connected by ramps. Furthermore, the temple is nestled into a mountain massif. It was truly a worthwhile visit, especially since we were the only tourists there and were able to take fantastic photos. Unfortunately, this was for a sad reason. Due to an attack, some tour operators no longer offer this part of the itinerary. Consequently, our visit to the Valley of the Kings was canceled due to security concerns, so we then visited the Colossi of Memnon , two massive, monumental stone statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III. Our Nile cruise ended here. However, after disembarking, our tour wasn't quite over. We continued on to El Gouna for swimming and relaxation.
To conclude our tour, here's a brief historical overview of this ancient civilization in our knowledge section. Early Period and Old Kingdom (c. 3100–2137 BC): Unification of Upper and Lower Egypt. The classic "Age of the Pyramids." The country was stable and prosperous until its decline at the end of the period. Middle Kingdom (c. 2137–1550 BC): Renewed prosperity and a golden age for art, culture, and crafts. New Kingdom and Late Period (c. 1550–1070 BC): The era of global power with famous pharaohs (including Rames II). Greco-Roman Period (332–30 BC): Beginning of the conquest by Alexander the Great. The pharaonic era ends with the reign of the famous Queen Cleopatra. From 30 BC onward, Egypt is part of the Roman Empire.
Days 11 to 15: Due to the security situation at the time, we chose El Gouna to relax a bit. Upon entering the hotel's designated area, we felt quite comfortable. After checking in, we went straight into the water, which turned into an almost traumatic experience. After a short time, I became so exhausted that I was sinking. No one heard my cries for help, and I was swept further and further away from the shore. I panicked. Thankfully, I suddenly felt a sandbar beneath my feet, was able to rest, and managed to get back to the beach on my second attempt. My partner had been asleep on the sun lounger and was unharmed. I went straight to my room and slept for almost 12 hours straight... the tour had been exhausting, especially the early mornings and restless nights. The following days were relaxing and passed without incident. On the last day, our conclusion is clear: a tour of Egypt is not a vacation; you have to be able to cope with a stressful program, pushy vendors, and lots of bazaars.